TUCKED DISCREETLY BEHIND the concierge desk of W Bangkok hotel you’ll find Nikaku, an omakase Japanese restaurant specializing in Edo-mae sushi and hailing from Kitakyusu in Fukuoka, which quietly made its debut earlier this year.
The original 60-year-old restaurant is currently led by the third generation of chef-owners, chef Setsuo Funahashi and pastry chef Kazumi Funahashi. Developed hundreds of years ago, this method of sushi is known for preserving the quality and freshness of the fish. Chef Setsuo continues the tradition with skills that he picked up in Tokyo and adapts his menu to anbai, a term referencing to the balance of vinegar and salt, which he perfects through the rice in addition to honte-gaeshi, the method of forming the actual nigiri. The restaurant was so successful in Kitakyushu that it became the first and only spot awarded two Michelin stars in the Fukuoka/Saga edition in 2014 and 2019.
The ethos and quality in the Bangkok location does not stray from their honored traditions, foremost among them: the restaurant sources most, if not all, their seafood fresh from the Kanmon Straits and surrounding waters of Kyushu. That same day, it is sent straight to Bangkok for its Edo-mae sushi preparation.
The only tell-tale sign you’ll have of Nikaku is a small white sign next to an inconspicuous door that leads you into the 12-seater omakase setup where you’ll be greeted by exceptionally trained sushi chefs who are busy preparing the menu of the day that could include anything from buttery chutoro (bluefin tuna), anago (eel) and even the rarest of sea urchin, aka uni. The 20-course menu can and should be paired with the Kyushu Tea tasting menu, which takes you on a trip around the southern Japanese island or, of course, with one of the many sakes that hail from the same prefecture.
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Edo-mae sushi
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Fresh ingredients are flown direct from Kyushu, Japan
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There's a Kyushu tea tasting menu
Dessert at Nikaku is as unique as the sushi itself. Kazumi focuses on wagashi-making methods in her desserts combining her deep appreciation for Japanese aesthetics that harmoniously blend with meticulously chosen additive-free ingredients. We fell for the flourless cacao cake made with black bean.
nikakubangkok.com; average price per person Bt7,500
Images courtesy of Nikaku.
Written By
Megan Leon
Megan Leon is a Bangkok-based freelance food writer and culinary collaborator for emerging restaurants and young talent. In addition to writing for various publications, she also works closely with local chefs, restaurateurs and small-scale suppliers to bring their stories to life through narratives and photography. Beyond her editorial work, Megan ..Read More
