TUCKED DISCREETLY BEHIND the concierge desk of W Bangkok hotel you’ll find Nikaku, an omakase Japanese restaurant specializing in Edo-mae sushi and hailing from Kitakyusu in Fukuoka, which quietly made its debut earlier this year.  

The original 60-year-old restaurant is currently led by the third generation of chef-owners, chef Setsuo Funahashi and pastry chef Kazumi Funahashi. Developed hundreds of years ago, this method of sushi is known for preserving the quality and freshness of the fish. Chef Setsuo continues the tradition with skills that he picked up in Tokyo and adapts his menu to anbai, a term referencing to the balance of vinegar and salt, which he perfects through the rice in addition to honte-gaeshi, the method of forming the actual nigiri. The restaurant was so successful in Kitakyushu that it became the first and only spot awarded two Michelin stars in the Fukuoka/Saga edition in 2014 and 2019. 

The ethos and quality in the Bangkok location does not stray from their honored traditions, foremost among them: the restaurant sources most, if not all, their seafood fresh from the Kanmon Straits and surrounding waters of Kyushu. That same day, it is sent straight to Bangkok for its Edo-mae sushi preparation.

The only tell-tale sign you’ll have of Nikaku is a small white sign next to an inconspicuous door that leads you into the 12-seater omakase setup where you’ll be greeted by exceptionally trained sushi chefs who are busy preparing the menu of the day that could include anything from buttery chutoro (bluefin tuna), anago (eel) and even the rarest of sea urchin, aka uni. The 20-course menu can and should be paired with the Kyushu Tea tasting menu, which takes you on a trip around the southern Japanese island or, of course, with one of the many sakes that hail from the same prefecture.  

Dessert at Nikaku is as unique as the sushi itself. Kazumi focuses on wagashi-making methods in her desserts combining her deep appreciation for Japanese aesthetics that harmoniously blend with meticulously chosen additive-free ingredients. We fell for the flourless cacao cake made with black bean.

nikakubangkok.com; average price per person Bt7,500 

Images courtesy of Nikaku.

Chefs Adrien Castillo and Romain Dupeyre discovered a shared culinary passion when they both worked at the two-Michelin-starred La Chévre d’Or in the French Riviera more than 15 years ago. Their globe-trotting journeys have taken them across different continents and now to Hong Kong with a partnership at Racines.

A Review of Racines

“Racines” is French for roots and chefs Castillo and Dupeyre are hoping to introduce Hong Kong diners to the diversity in terroir and produce of their native homes – Castillo’s in Toulouse and Dupeyre’s in Nice. Inspired by their own childhood memories, both chefs seek to inject into family recipes the savoir-faire that they gathered through stints at establishments such as Shangri-la and Ritz Carlton in Paris, and Petrus and Caprice in Hong Kong.

Racines offers a five-course Genese menu (HKD 1,488) or a six-course option (HKD 1,588) and is able to accommodate vegetarians with 72 hours’ notice; there are no vegan, halal or keto options. There are also options for wine pairing: HKD 598 for three glasses and HKD 898 for five.

The six-course menu seemed quite doable with a pre-dessert and a dessert already making up two courses – naturally, we had forgotten about the amuse bouche and the petit fours! The amuse bouche of a red pepper tartlet, chicken liver parfait cooked with foie gras terrine, and French cod fish croquette was a hearty start to the meal, especially after the house signature sourdough bread and exquisite smoked butter.

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The red pepper tartlet was a burst of flavours of sobrasada with the kick of harissa sauce and red peppers, which immediately whet the appetite. The cod fish croquette was a rich and creamy mouthful of a warm brandade of mashed potato, cheese and cod fish.

The succulent mackerel from Brittany, perfectly cooked in a sublime blend of white wine, vinegar, and aromatic spices, stole the spotlight and left our taste buds longing for more. The layer of tender eggplant, infused with the rich flavours of Ras el hanout – a nod to southwest France’s Mediterranean influences – added a delightful depth to the dish.

It’s actually the cailette sausage, stuffed with a blend of foie gras, pork, swiss chard, and an array of spices, that takes centre stage on the plating of the artichoke course. However, it is the pickled artichokes that have been fermenting since the restaurant’s opening last November, that completes this dish by giving it a delightful balance of sweetness and acidity that complements the rich cailette.

The red mullet looked a little overpowered by the bouillabaisse espuma but a little patience in cutting through the froth led to a rewarding discovery of a flavourful stuffing of cuttlefish, octopus and prawns. The hero of the evening was undoubtedly the roasted pigeon from Brittany. Tender and not too gamey, it was a perfect pink and the meaty flavours were enhanced by fermented baby eggplant which added a piquant hint of acidity.

The pre-dessert of clacbitou cheese, ice cream, arugula and pineapple was an interesting mix of greens and dessert – a perfect transition to the dessert proper of the kumquat sorbet with meringue. To round up the southwestern France experience, the petit fours came in nostalgic tin boxes from the chefs’ home regions. The meal had truly been a journey to the south of France and we left sated and satisfied.

Cuisine

French

The Vibe 

As you walk through the doors of Racines, it is almost like stepping into a homey, rustic cabin with warm lighting and wooden interiors. The place only seats a maximum of 18, with six counter seats in the open kitchen where you can watch the chefs work. Despite the modest size of the restaurant, table seatings are still reasonably comfortable. The counter seats are a tight fit but still would be my pick because it allows you to interact with the chefs, which makes for half the pleasure of dining at Racines – their friendly, personable service was definitely a highlight and it was a delight listening to their stories.

Quick Notes 

Price for two: 

HKD 3,200+ excluding drinks

Address:

22 Upper Station St, Sheung Wan

WhatsApp: 5742 6539

Opening Hours: 
Thursday – Monday: 6 pm – 10.45 pm (two seatings)

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Related: 10 Best Alfresco Restaurants And Terraces In Hong Kong This Season

Rollie turns a new chapter as it welcomes new head chef Andy. Bringing nearly two decades of experience working with Japanese cuisines in the US and South East Asia, Andy joins Wil Fang’s THE DPT Group restaurant from his most recent post at Wagyumafia in Hong Kong.

Situated on Cochrane Street, a quick glance from the midlevel escalators would place Rollie as just another modern omakase restaurant. However, upon a closer look, one will find distinctive details inspired by Venice Beach and street culture, hinting at something different. Stepping inside, California hip-hop hits play in the background while oddities from Supreme are placed along the traditional cutlery and Japanese furnishing.

All about the delicacies:

The theme is best described as west coast-style Japanese food, which has developed into its own cuisine. Highlighted are the range of open-style hand rolls which are served in a fun and casual atmosphere. On top of the signature offerings such as the wil.i.roll, a tribute to founder Wil who personally created a richly-textured concoction of spicy tuna, and the Ex-Scallop-Ur, which matches garlic butter seared scallops and blanched asparagus, head chef Andy introduces a number of new menu items.

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The additions include oysters, served both fried and fresh, shishamo tempura, salmon and yellowtail carpaccio, “Lobstah” and “Big Shrimpin” handrolls, seasonal handrolls using in-season ingredients, and rice bowls. To cap off the night on a sweet note, guests can enjoy the Matcha Basque Burnt Cheesecake made in collaboration with sister company Cookie Department which operates a branch around the corner.

“My family’s restaurant shaped my childhood, and growing up around it taught me a lot about life and what it takes to run a successful establishment. There’s no better place to draw inspiration from than personal experience, and I hope to bring these memories to life with Rollie and other future projects.” – Wil Fang, founder of The DPT Group.

For larger parties and special events, a hidden door with a skateboard truck door handle leads to a tuck-away space upstairs. On the drink menu is a range of imported draft beers, sake, spirits and fusion cocktails, while sushi boats, party, and free-flow packages are available upon request.

Rollie
G/F, 32號, Cochrane St,
Central, Hong Kong

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Related: 10 Best Alfresco Restaurants And Terraces In Hong Kong This Season

Shek Tong Tsui, a relatively traditional neighbourhood on the western end of Hong Kong island, is not a place you would go to for contemporary Chinese cuisine. But that is about to change with the opening of The Praya at One-Eight-One Hotel.

A Review of The Praya 

Chinese cuisine is going through a bit of a renaissance lately with younger chefs bringing their western training back to their roots. While nothing hits home quite like a good traditional Cantonese steamed fish or dim sum, it has also been interesting to discover what twists these young chefs have been bringing to the table.

Hong Kong-born Chef Samuel Ng is staking his claim as one of these young mavericks at The Praya, a “Neo-Chinese” restaurant that recently opened at the One-Eight-One Hotel, where is he is adding his own touches to traditional Cantonese fare.

There are many options available for meals here: two- or three-course set lunches (price of main course + HKD 70 – 120), a la carte, or an eight-course tasting menu (HKD 1,288). Since we wanted to try as much as possible, we naturally opted for the tasting menu.

The appetisers of drunken clams steeped in Shaoxing wine and sprinkled with garden herbs; marinated local kampachi with Bonito soy, chilli and garlic; and the sourdough spring onion pancakes, pickled onion salad and fuyu cream, were already signs that we were in for a few surprises.

The pairing of the Shaoxing wine and the clams was an excellent combination as the umami of the wine brought out the sweetness of the fresh and fleshy clams even more. The kampachi was served more as a crudo but with the added kick of chilli, not a usual Chinese preference.

The sourdough spring onion pancakes reminded me of the African frena, with a fluffiness not found in Chinese pancakes. The use of sourdough offered a contemporary twist and the accompanying thick and creamy fuyu (fermented bean curd) cream was inspired.

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We switched out our fish head for the grilled three-finger threadfin with 30-year salted lemon and preserved olives – and had no regrets. The skin was crispy while the meat retained its moistness but it was the sauce of salted lemon and preserved olives that made the umami so vibrant.

The pièce de résistance for me was the gold coin eel coated with smoked honey and served with sourdough pancakes and housemade pickles. Cooked on a skewer, the eel was grilled to perfection, crispy and succulent at the same time.

We skipped the master stock beef quintet because it was already a lot of food for just three of us and dove straight into the mains. The steamed egg custard with slippers lobster was not as silky smooth as I would have liked and it seemed a waste of the lobster, especially since this costs $HKD 688 on the a la carte menu.

The clay pot vegetable rice with chargrilled master stock chicken was aromatic and flavourful, and more than made up for the egg custard. It had shades of Hainanese chicken rice, especially with the fermented chill sauce. The crunchy kale in ginger essence was the perfect match for it.

The meal rounded up with walnut financiers and hazelnut ice cream and generous helpings of petit fours. It was a menu that definitely sums up the influences that the chef has had while honing his skills at places such as Stanley in Brisbane, Australia, and Ho Lee Fook in Hong Kong.

Cuisine

Neo-Chinese

We Loved 

Drunken clams steeped in Shaoxing wine

Grilled three-finger threadfin with 30-year salted lemon and preserved olives

Gold coin eel coated with smoked honey

Claypot vegetable rice with chargrilled master stock chicken

The Vibe 

Being a hotel restaurant, The Praya has to contend with guests’ breakfasts, hence the 7 am opening hour. But come lunch or dinner, diners can opt for the full Chinese menu. Because it is the only dining space in the hotel, it has to cater for hybrid use so the space comprises a main dining hall, a bar, a small terrace and an 18-seat private dining room. The main hall, with some interesting art pieces on show, is bathed in natural light in the day and offers a very relaxing unfettered view of the harbour.

Quick Notes 

Price for two: 

$2,600 tasting menu, excluding drinks

Address:

Level 3, 181 Connaught Road West, Shek Tong Tsui, Hong Kong

Tel. 3181 1666

Opening Hours:

Daily, 7 am – 11 pm

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Related: The Steak House Brings Back Old School Charm To Regent Hong Kong

Dolos is the latest brainchild of twin brothers Joshua and Caleb Ng who are behind food and beverage establishments such as Interval, Café Leitz, Common Ground and Vivant, under the Twins Kitchen brand. It continues the twins’ proclivity for unconventional cosy spaces offering good food at reasonable prices.

A Review of Dolos

Dolos, which is the name of a Greek god, actually is also the name for the T-shaped wave-breakers that you would have seen if you have ever hiked to High Island Reservoir. So don’t expect Greek food – or Hong Kong food, for that matter – when you go dine at Dolos. The restaurant is touted as a French-Japanese.

Head chef Sean Yuen doesn’t come from Le Cordon Bleu or Culinary Institute of America pedigree but cut his teeth working at top culinary establishments such as Florentino Grossi in Melbourne, as well as Hue Dining and the three-star Michelin Caprice in Hong Kong. More interestingly, he also plays bass with the local math rock band tfvsjs.

Dolos only serves a seven-course chef’s menu (HKD 880) every night. We started off with two generous amuse bouches: the oyster with banana and almond, and the cuttlefish with shisho and taramasalata. The cuttlefish was simple and delicious, but I have to say the oyster was not my favourite, either visually or in taste.

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The Shima aji, or striped jack, was served with Thai basil, fish sauce and lemongrass. The Thai basil which covered the whole portion of fish overpowered the natural freshness and sweetness of the crudo. It was also a relatively modest portion compared to the amuse-bouche.

The monkfish liver was enjoyable, with the fresh tomato offsetting the richness of the liver. The red prawn bisque was an absolute stand-out. The bisque was fragrant and tasty, and the prawn had the springy bounce of freshness.

The next two courses – the grilled pomfret with mint, peas and potato puree, and the three-yellow chicken with clam and butterbur sauce – looked surprisingly similar and both tasted good. There was a choice of pigeon, Wagyu beef picanha or grilled eel for the main course.

I was very happy I chose the eel. The skin was grilled to a light crunchiness while the meat retained its moist flavours but it was the accompanying sansho sauce crafted from eel bones and carrot oil that brought out all the umami in the dish.

The beef, which my dinner companion had, looked to be a perfect medium rare. The jasmine tea ice cream served with roasted strawberries was as refreshing as it sounds. It was a great end to the meal.

The presentation and the portioning are a little rough around the edges but the restaurant has kept its promise of serving seasonal products from both land and sea, and it has certainly achieved that with its ingredients.

Cuisine

French Japanese

We loved 

Red prawn bisque

Grilled pomfret

Grilled eel

Jasmine tea ice cream and roasted strawberries

The Vibe 

Dolos is a cosy space, seating only people and they do only one seating every evening, so you don’t have to worry about being chased out at 8.30 pm. The owners have certainly given a lot of thought to the diners’ experience, including generously offering no corkage charges for BYOB. In Central, this is almost unheard of. Not only that, they will serve your wine in proper wine glasses so you get the full experience.

Quick Notes

Price for two:

HKD 1,800 

Address:

G/F, 60 Staunton Street,

Central, Hong Kong

Bookings through Bistrochat

Opening Hours: 
Tuesday to Saturday: 6 pm-midnight

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Related: Enjoy A Unique Dining Experience At These Themed Restaurants And Cafes In Hong Kong

Le Bec Fin, which means “fine palate”, is probably one of Hong Kong’s best-kept secrets. Hidden in an unassuming building in the midst of the hustle and bustle of Marble Road in North Point, the restaurant has been quietly delighting gourmands for five years.

A Review of Le Bec Fin

It’s understandable if you’re scratching your head and wondering why you haven’t heard of the name Le Bec Fin. For the past five years, it has been flying under the radar – also unsurprising given that three of those years were Covid-plagued.

But it’s attempting to make its presence felt now with a new head chef, Ichida Masaki, and sous chef, Yusuke Kitade, while also expanding its footprint to now include a brand new bar and a private dining room.

It was a very quiet evening when we arrived at the restaurant on a Tuesday night. My last visit had been almost four years ago and I was keen to see how the restaurant had survived the pandemic – and also to try the food from the new chefs, of course.

My strongest memory of the old Le Bec Fin was the Wagyu sando and the French onion soup. I was happy to discover that both remain on the new Omakase menu. The eight-course dinner with prerequisite amuse bouche and tea or coffee is priced at HKD 1,580+. The menu, when we finally asked for it, is about as forthcoming as the staff in the restaurant; it doesn’t tell you much except for perhaps the protein in the dish.

The first course of crab and jelly, was actually a little more than the two ingredients, being topped by some sea urchin and caviar. It was cool and refreshing, perfect for the heatwave we have been having.

From social media, the beef tartare here seems to be served in several forms. Ours were actually marinated beef strips that were served with a single sheet of nori. It was flavourful and was a departure from the normal minced beef and egg but not necessarily an improvement.

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The tuna cutlet, however, was well executed. Served katsu-style, the batter was light but crunchy while the middle still maintained perfect pinkness. The onion soup was as good as I remembered with a lovely seared cheese top.

The chargrilled kinki fish was also succulent and tender but, weirdly, came in a shallow plate so small it made cutting difficult. The Wagyu sando, or steak sandwich as the menu calls it, was the obvious highlight of the meal. The medium-rare meat was juicy and wasn’t too fatty, with the thick toast slices soaking up the extra oiliness.

The chicken ramen was another highlight. The springy noodles absorbed the rich broth and every mouthful was full of umami. It was a filling meal but it didn’t stop us from gobbling up the large mochi dessert to complete our night testing out our fine palates.

Cuisine

Japanese French

We Loved 

Onion soup

Steak Sandwich

Chicken ramen

The Vibe

The original Le Bec Fin is quite modest in size, seating six at the counter and another six at the only table in the restaurant. The new private room, however, will be able to accommodate another 22 people while bar portions of the food will be served in the new bar. The vibe is pretty zen which might explain the laidback service from staff who make little effort to enhance the dining experience. Even both the head chef and sous chef barely showed their face at the counter, despite it being an open kitchen of sorts.

Quick notes

Price for two:

HKD 1,600 excluding drinks

Address:

Shop 8, G/F China United Center

28 Marble Road, North Point

Tel. 5726 0882 (Whatsapp)

Opening Hours: 
Tuesday – Sunday: 4 pm till late (bar); 6.30 pm till late (restaurant)

This story first appeared here.

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One-star Michelin Le Du Bangkok has celebrated a big jump to No 15 on the World’s 50 Best list for 2023 after having already been named the best in Asia by Asia’s 50 Best. And, with the opening of Niras at K11 Musea, Hong Kong diners won’t need to fly to Bangkok to taste their specialities.

A Review of Niras 

It’s already been a great year for chef-owner Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn and Le Du and we’re only halfway through it. Hot on the heels of Le Du’s many accolades comes the opening of Niras in Hong Kong. Niras enjoys the distinction of being the first overseas outpost of Le Du.

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His mission in returning to Bangkok and opening Le Du was to elevate Thai food beyond just the Thai street specialities that people enjoyed. The rest, as they say, is history. In Hong Kong, Chef Ton has left the kitchens in charge of his trusted Le Du right hand, Chef “Mai” Naruemon Ratiphuthilap, and Chef “Bua” Sarocha Rajatanawin.

In full disclosure, for the purpose of this review, we were treated to the very first full meal served at Niras, before the kitchen was fully run in. In its early run, Niras will be sharing a large portion of Le Du’s menu – including the infamous river prawn, banana prawn with seaweed and spicy beetroot, and grouper with Thai kale in choo chee curry.

For dinner, there is a choice of a four-course tasting menu of HKD 680 and a more indulgent six-course of HKD 1,080. Both come with an option to add an extra course of Chef Ton’s popular river prawn (replaced with lobster in Hong Kong) dish for an extra HKD 400.

We were given the full work, of course. The amuse-bouche of tartlets started the ball rolling for the evening. We tucked into the kuruma ebi (Japanese tiger prawn) which was just lightly broiled allowing the natural juiciness to come through. The sprinkling of seaweed and fresh herbs added umami and the pairing of a spicy beetroot sorbet was inspired.

The Japanese oyster was almost unrecognisable, deconstructed and chopped up to be served with Thai Sichuan pepper and Northern spices like a tartare. The meat was sweet and the drops of Sichuan pepper oil left a soft kick on the palate.

AmadaI replaced the regular grouper for the fish course, with the skin delightfully crispy and the flesh tender and moist. The choo chee curry is not as recognised as Thai red or green curry and is a little closer to the richer panning curry. Served on the side, it provided a good foil for the meat but was not overpowering.

The crab atop a base of mushroom and rice, was a clever combination as the rice went very well with the homemade sriracha and spices. The hero of the night was definitely the grilled lobster, which replaced the Thai river prawn, that had been split down the middle and served whole.

The crustacean was grilled and then drenched with a sauce of prawn head juices and tom yum gong, and then topped with crispy fried egg. Served on the side was rich black organic rice with chillies, mango, and crispy shallots. Every mouthful was a burst of umami and textures.

After that, we were honestly too full to move, which didn’t do justice to the A5 Wagyu and the mango sticky rice – that looked more like a Western dessert – that came after. Despite just six courses, the meal was very filling and I can only assume that portion sizes will be adjusted as they test out the menu after opening. But, in all, the meal is good value for the money.

Cuisine

Modern Thai

We Loved 

Kuruma ebi, seaweed, spicy beetroot

Amadai, Thai kale, choo chee curry

Signature grilled lobster by Chef Ton

The Vibe 

The restaurant actually seats 60 and even without the three private rooms, sofa seats and a layout with many nooks and corners bring a good level of privacy for diners. Subtle Thai influences infuse the décor, transporting diners to Niras’ country of origin. There is a huge bar taking centre stage. With Chef Ton himself a qualified sommelier, pairings and drinks are obviously going to be a major part of the offerings at Niras. We were not able to see the full wine list but the wines we were served included Chateauneuf du Pape and the Czech J Stavek. Given the maze-like K11 Musea where lifts don’t connect to many floors, the restaurant is a little hard to find. Make sure you take the correct set of lifts (near Chanel).

Quick Notes  

Price for two: 

Four courses – HKD 2,200

Six courses – HKD 3,000

(lobster dish not included)

Address:

Shop 704, 7/F K11 Musea

Victoria Dockside, Tsim Sha Tsui

Tel. 3905 3022

Opening Hours:

Monday – Sunday: 12nn – 3 pm, 6 pm – 10 pm

This story first appeared here.

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Duddell’s has been a stalwart of Cantonese dining in Hong Kong for more than 10 years. It recently welcomed Chef Chan Yau-Leung, with impeccable credentials from one-star Michelin Fook Lam Moon and the erstwhile Guo Fu Lau, to its kitchens.

A Review of Duddell’s

Duddell’s has averaged a new chef every two years or so, as far as memory serves. Despite that, it has managed to achieve and maintain its one-star Michelin status – a testament to its consistency.  Chef Chan brings with him over four decades of experience in Cantonese cuisine and was responsible for leading the now-closed Guo Fu Lau to its first Michelin star.

Our expectations were high when we arrived for our media-tasting dinner, having already heard good things. The chilled South African abalone four-head (HKD 428 each) was a stunning start to our meal. Served in an oyster shell, the abalone was tender and juicy, having absorbed all the juices from the marinade.

The fried shredded shrimp with fresh crab meat, Chinese ham, egg and bean sprouts (HKD 468) was another masterpiece. The dish requires very deft knife work in slicing and dicing the different ingredients and mastery of heat and cooking techniques. The result was a party in the mouth with strong “wok hei”.

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Barbequed pork – or char siu as we know it – has become almost de rigeur for Cantonese dining these days, with many restaurants even opting for Iberico pork. We had the BBQ pork platter (HKD 308) which comprised the usual honey-glazed local port cuts and a more unusual Sichuan spiced version – nothing really beats a good honey-glazed char siu.

The thick winter melon broth with crab meat (from the tasting menu) was a good respite before the second part of the meal. We came back to the sautéed prawn with chicken broth (HKD 398 each), which looked simple but packed a heavy punch of flavours. The prawn meat was extraordinarily bouncy and succulent.

We all love a good crispy fried chicken. In fact, we loved it so much that we had two versions of it: the signature crispy fried chicken (HKD 698). The fried chicken passe muster, with crispy skin and tender meat.

The glutinous rice version was a two-in-one slam dunk. The chicken was similarly crispy and tender, and the glutinous rice was moist and flavourful. My only complaint was that the rice was a tad too salty but that’s an easy enough solution.

We ended with a chilled ice jelly with fig, dragon fruit and bird’s nest. It’s tagged as a signature dessert but surprisingly doesn’t seem to appear on the regular menu. Still, it was refreshing and the combination of fig and dragon fruit went perfectly. The bird’s nest was, of course, a bonus!

Duddell’s may be on some Cathay Pacific flights but nothing beats having a hot meal in the restaurant proper.

Cuisine

Cantonese

We Recommend

Chilled South African abalone four-head (HKD 428 each)

Fried shredded shrimp with fresh crab meat, Chinese ham, egg and bean sprouts (HKD 468)

Sautéed prawn with chicken broth (HKD 398 each)

Crispy glutinous rice chicken (HKD 988)

The Vibe (Heading 3, bold)

When Duddell’s first opened, it provided an interesting concept with some of its space devoted to art and exhibitions. The art part of it may have slowed down a bit, no thanks to three years of Covid, but it still has an artsy vibe about it. The main restaurant is on the third floor but those who want a more casual vibe can opt for the Salon on the fourth floor. There’s an added attraction now – a new cocktail menu based on the Five Elements by in-house head mixologist, Mario Calderone.

Quick Notes  

Price for two: 

HKD3,000

Address: 

Level 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion,

1 Dud Dell’s Street

Tel. 2424 9191

Opening Hours: 

Monday to Saturday: 12nn – 3 pm, 6 pm – 11 pm

Sunday: 12nn – 3 pm, 6 pm – 10 pm

This story first appeared here.

Related: World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023: These Restaurants Made It To The 51-100 List

Gishiki Lounge, the intimate cocktail bar on the basement floor in Tai Kwun is attached to Japanese restaurant Sushi Zo but certainly deserves its own review. The fifteen-cocktail menu is split into the three stages of Noh theatre: Jo, meaning beginning; Ha, meaning development; Kyu, moaning climax. 

Here’s a quick review of Gishiki Lounge –

Guests entering Gishiki Lounge are first greeted by flickering noh masks which line the walls. The space is reminiscent of a colonial-era living room — plush, dark emerald velvet upholstery, heavy curtains, and black marble with gold and bright turquoise accents. The menu is presented in the form of three fans, each representing a different stage of noh theatre. Every drink on the menu is priced at HKD 138, and each offer is tied to a mask used in noh, with its story reflected in the tasting notes and conception of its corresponding cocktail. 

Gishiki Lounge’s starting portion of the menu is presented in the first fan, Jo: a presentation of five drinks that signify the beginning of a performance. Easy-to-drink, crushable cocktails are the stars here. Those who are looking for summery cocktails will find offerings such as Juroku, a clarified piña colada with a thick, almost syrupy mouthfeel, or O-tobide which tastes as a pink jolly Rancher made with champagne acid and strawberry air. Cocktails featuring ingredients like soursop pulp, sobacha — a roasted buckwheat tea — and mochigome, a sweet Japanese rice, create light-bodied flavours which are easily enjoyed by all. These are also the most dangerous; it’s too easy to overindulge and stumble out of the bar, not knowing what hit you — not that it’s entirely a bad thing. 

The second act is Ha, where the plot develops and thickens. The five cocktails in this segment of the menu at Gishiki Lounge represent Ha with complex flavour profiles and transformative properties. One cocktail that stood out to us is based on the Hannya mask, which tells the story of a woman who, eaten up with rage and jealousy, slowly transforms into a demon over time. Hannya is depicted with a slow transformation cocktail which is poured over a sphere of hibiscus ice — as the ice melts, the flavour of the cocktail evolves. Other offerings include Fudo, wood-smoked with cherry wood chips, and the Tsuri-manako, named after the golden mask and presented with gold flakes and a saffron garnish.  

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The final act, Kyu, is the climax of the play. The cocktails which represent Kyu are spirit-forward, with aggressive and experimental flavours like blue cheese, habañero, chestnut, and mushrooms. Not for the faint of heart, these are the strongest drinks of all the offerings, which also make them the most interesting. Yamanba, named for a children-eating witch, is full of earthy notes like onion aroma, shiitake mushrooms, and winter truffles. The warrior mask, Heida, is a dainty peach and pink cocktail which features persimmon, dragon fruit and blue cheese — but looks are deceiving. Because of the blue cheese, it has a pungent smell, offering a cheesy aftertaste and nose.  

Bar Manager Billy Lau of Gishiki Lounge has put together an incredibly cohesive and innovative cocktail menu which tells the story of noh theatre through conception and distinctly Japanese flavours. The brave can try and work their way through all fifteen drinks, which Lau or anyone on his mixology team is happy to accompany with the back story to each. Or, one can simply choose based on the types of cocktails one prefers — light, complex, strong. Or just pick and choose. No one is judging. 

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Cuisine 

Japanese 

We Recommend

— Jo
Semimaru: Made with mochigome sweet rice, soursop pulp, and sesame oil. This tastes like a sesame espresso martini with a creamy and rich texture, yet still light-bodied

— Ha 
Tsuri-manako: A version of the whiskey sour featuring beeswax, gold flakes, the Japanese citrus sudachi, and saffron garnish. Pine tar lends a smoky aftertaste. 

— Kyu 
Shojo: The last, and strongest, drink on the menu which Lau describes as a “gentle martini.” A nod to the classic 50/50 martini made with gin and vermouth. Has a rice-y, cheesy taste and is topped with cherry blossom saline oil.  

The Highlights 

Great for a small group of friends or post-dinner drinks as Sushi Zo is just beside you. The dark, cosy ambience is great for long conversations and first dates

Quick Notes  

Price for two:

All drinks are priced at HKD 138.

Address:

Shop 01, LG103, Tai Kwun, Central 

Timings:

Mon-Thu 3 pm-10 pm; Fri-Sat 3 pm-2 am 

This story first appeared here.

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Two-star Michelin restaurant Sichuan Moon, at Macau’s Wynn Palace Hotel, enjoyed two years before the pandemic shut Macau from the world. But the restaurant, under the talented guidance of culinary director and award-winning chef Andre Chiang is back with a vengeance – and a new Discovery menu.

 A Review of Sichuan Moon

Sichuan Moon offers two menus. The Classic (MOP2,888/HKD 2,806) takes diners through some of the more traditional Sichuan dishes such as ma po tofu and dan noodles. The Discovery menu (MOP3,288/HKD 3,194) is a more seasonal-based menu which offers many detours into some lesser-known but no less delicious tastes of the cuisine.

Naturally, we went with the Discovery menu. With 24 courses and lots of interesting distractions on the side, it is hard to know where to start in describing our meal at Sichuan Moon to give it full justice. Suffice it to say that from start to end, it was truly a journey of discovery into the world of Sichuan tastes beyond “ma la”.

The meal started with a Chinese tea ceremony at the back of the main dining hall where tea masters brew the Pu Erh Flower Buds picked from Xishuangbanna in Yunnan, which are only harvested once a year.

Chiang and his executive chef Wilson Fam don’t do things by half measures here. Not for them, a couple of small plates of pickled turnips. Instead, we were treated to a mind-boggling 12 plates of pickles from the usual turnips and ginger to special ones like rhubarb and the “salty, sweet and sour” of watermelon skin, melon and cucumber skin.

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What was interesting in the menu was the chefs’ take on Sichuan tastes. While the spice was familiar the presentation of the dishes offered a high level of reinvention. We eased into the meal with two signature snacks of the Kamatoro caviar tart and the spiced beef pie, both of which would not be out of place in an upper-crust French restaurant.

The auspicious 88 Fortune Treasures, comprising eight cold appetisers, were also presented together creating a high level of impact. The appetisers which ranged from the more familiar eggplant to French rabbit with cumin offered a variety of umami from the different spices.

Ancient sage Zhang Zhongjing, credited with inventing the dumpling back in 206 BC, would find it hard to recognise his Zhong dumplings at Sichuan Moon. The “dumpling” stuffed with ma la lobster sashimi sits on a base of eight deconstructed spicy sauces, making every mouthful an umami eruption.

Course after course presented surprise after surprise, with spectacle after spectacle. Even the simple mung bean jelly dish was deconstructed to first an XO sauce made with silverfish, ham and truffles and other seasonings before Chef Chiang shaved fresh mung bean jelly to be added and mixed.

The traditional Chinese ingredient abalone was cooked Wellington style and served with fresh pepper sauce: the abalone was soft and tender but it was the fluffy pastry that was the hero of the dish. This is well worth a trip across the waters.

One of the most interesting discoveries of the meal is also learning how to eat some of the more imaginative courses. The best example would be the wood-roasted meat in unusual flavour, which was actually Japanese A4 Wagyu and vegetables stuffed into a crisp roasted chicken wing, served with sweet sauce, chives and crunchy shrimp, and a wrap. It took some intense discussion before we realised we were supposed to eat it Peking duck-style!

Even though the meal wasn’t overly spicy, the dessert of ice jelly with Shizuoka melon juice was a deliciously refreshing respite before we ended with the goji berry beehive cake.

It’s hard to remember the last time I had such a complete dinner experience where my taste buds were continually stimulated by the sour, bitter, sweet and spicy, and the brain was so engaged in the stories and the philosophy of the chefs.

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Cuisine

Sichuan

We Loved 

Everything!

The Vibe 

It’s Macau and it’s called a Palace, so expect ostentation in the plush furnishings and glitter. Yet there is a touch of whimsy in the Murano glass butterflies in flight at the stunning dessert corner and the centrepiece chandelier in the main dining room. At the prices, there is no doubt that Sichuan Moon is a top-end fine dining establishment (with dress codes to match) best reserved for very special occasions. The place is far from stuffy though, thanks in large part to a well-trained army of knowledgeable serving staff who are all able to discuss and explain the stories behind the dishes. There is also an excellent wine pairing (MOP1,308/HKD 1,270) for this meal that takes over four hours.

Quick Notes  

Price for two: 

MOP6,600 (HKD 6412)

Address:

GF, North Esplanade, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Macau

+853 8889 3663

Opening Hours:

Thursday – Tuesday: 6 pm – 11 pm

This story first appeared here.

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