Review: Racines, Inspired By Southwestern French Cuisine, Takes Root In Hong Kong

The culinary journeys of chefs Adrien Castillo and Romain Dupeyre have led them to a serendipitous partnership at Racines.

By Winnie Chung Published on Sep 04, 2023, 03:00 PM

Review: Racines, Inspired By Southwestern French Cuisine, Takes Root In Hong Kong

Chefs Adrien Castillo and Romain Dupeyre discovered a shared culinary passion when they both worked at the two-Michelin-starred La Chévre d’Or in the French Riviera more than 15 years ago. Their globe-trotting journeys have taken them across different continents and now to Hong Kong with a partnership at Racines.

A Review of Racines

“Racines” is French for roots and chefs Castillo and Dupeyre are hoping to introduce Hong Kong diners to the diversity in terroir and produce of their native homes – Castillo’s in Toulouse and Dupeyre’s in Nice. Inspired by their own childhood memories, both chefs seek to inject into family recipes the savoir-faire that they gathered through stints at establishments such as Shangri-la and Ritz Carlton in Paris, and Petrus and Caprice in Hong Kong.

Racines offers a five-course Genese menu (HKD 1,488) or a six-course option (HKD 1,588) and is able to accommodate vegetarians with 72 hours’ notice; there are no vegan, halal or keto options. There are also options for wine pairing: HKD 598 for three glasses and HKD 898 for five.

The six-course menu seemed quite doable with a pre-dessert and a dessert already making up two courses – naturally, we had forgotten about the amuse bouche and the petit fours! The amuse bouche of a red pepper tartlet, chicken liver parfait cooked with foie gras terrine, and French cod fish croquette was a hearty start to the meal, especially after the house signature sourdough bread and exquisite smoked butter.

The red pepper tartlet was a burst of flavours of sobrasada with the kick of harissa sauce and red peppers, which immediately whet the appetite. The cod fish croquette was a rich and creamy mouthful of a warm brandade of mashed potato, cheese and cod fish.

The succulent mackerel from Brittany, perfectly cooked in a sublime blend of white wine, vinegar, and aromatic spices, stole the spotlight and left our taste buds longing for more. The layer of tender eggplant, infused with the rich flavours of Ras el hanout – a nod to southwest France’s Mediterranean influences – added a delightful depth to the dish.

It’s actually the cailette sausage, stuffed with a blend of foie gras, pork, swiss chard, and an array of spices, that takes centre stage on the plating of the artichoke course. However, it is the pickled artichokes that have been fermenting since the restaurant’s opening last November, that completes this dish by giving it a delightful balance of sweetness and acidity that complements the rich cailette.

The red mullet looked a little overpowered by the bouillabaisse espuma but a little patience in cutting through the froth led to a rewarding discovery of a flavourful stuffing of cuttlefish, octopus and prawns. The hero of the evening was undoubtedly the roasted pigeon from Brittany. Tender and not too gamey, it was a perfect pink and the meaty flavours were enhanced by fermented baby eggplant which added a piquant hint of acidity.

The pre-dessert of clacbitou cheese, ice cream, arugula and pineapple was an interesting mix of greens and dessert – a perfect transition to the dessert proper of the kumquat sorbet with meringue. To round up the southwestern France experience, the petit fours came in nostalgic tin boxes from the chefs’ home regions. The meal had truly been a journey to the south of France and we left sated and satisfied.

Cuisine

French

The Vibe

As you walk through the doors of Racines, it is almost like stepping into a homey, rustic cabin with warm lighting and wooden interiors. The place only seats a maximum of 18, with six counter seats in the open kitchen where you can watch the chefs work. Despite the modest size of the restaurant, table seatings are still reasonably comfortable. The counter seats are a tight fit but still would be my pick because it allows you to interact with the chefs, which makes for half the pleasure of dining at Racines – their friendly, personable service was definitely a highlight and it was a delight listening to their stories.