One-star Michelin Le Du Bangkok has celebrated a big jump to No 15 on the World’s 50 Best list for 2023 after having already been named the best in Asia by Asia’s 50 Best. And, with the opening of Niras at K11 Musea, Hong Kong diners won’t need to fly to Bangkok to taste their specialities.
A Review of Niras
It’s already been a great year for chef-owner Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn and Le Du and we’re only halfway through it. Hot on the heels of Le Du’s many accolades comes the opening of Niras in Hong Kong. Niras enjoys the distinction of being the first overseas outpost of Le Du.
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His mission in returning to Bangkok and opening Le Du was to elevate Thai food beyond just the Thai street specialities that people enjoyed. The rest, as they say, is history. In Hong Kong, Chef Ton has left the kitchens in charge of his trusted Le Du right hand, Chef “Mai” Naruemon Ratiphuthilap, and Chef “Bua” Sarocha Rajatanawin.
In full disclosure, for the purpose of this review, we were treated to the very first full meal served at Niras, before the kitchen was fully run in. In its early run, Niras will be sharing a large portion of Le Du’s menu – including the infamous river prawn, banana prawn with seaweed and spicy beetroot, and grouper with Thai kale in choo chee curry.
For dinner, there is a choice of a four-course tasting menu of HKD 680 and a more indulgent six-course of HKD 1,080. Both come with an option to add an extra course of Chef Ton’s popular river prawn (replaced with lobster in Hong Kong) dish for an extra HKD 400.
We were given the full work, of course. The amuse-bouche of tartlets started the ball rolling for the evening. We tucked into the kuruma ebi (Japanese tiger prawn) which was just lightly broiled allowing the natural juiciness to come through. The sprinkling of seaweed and fresh herbs added umami and the pairing of a spicy beetroot sorbet was inspired.
The Japanese oyster was almost unrecognisable, deconstructed and chopped up to be served with Thai Sichuan pepper and Northern spices like a tartare. The meat was sweet and the drops of Sichuan pepper oil left a soft kick on the palate.
AmadaI replaced the regular grouper for the fish course, with the skin delightfully crispy and the flesh tender and moist. The choo chee curry is not as recognised as Thai red or green curry and is a little closer to the richer panning curry. Served on the side, it provided a good foil for the meat but was not overpowering.
The crab atop a base of mushroom and rice, was a clever combination as the rice went very well with the homemade sriracha and spices. The hero of the night was definitely the grilled lobster, which replaced the Thai river prawn, that had been split down the middle and served whole.
The crustacean was grilled and then drenched with a sauce of prawn head juices and tom yum gong, and then topped with crispy fried egg. Served on the side was rich black organic rice with chillies, mango, and crispy shallots. Every mouthful was a burst of umami and textures.
After that, we were honestly too full to move, which didn’t do justice to the A5 Wagyu and the mango sticky rice – that looked more like a Western dessert – that came after. Despite just six courses, the meal was very filling and I can only assume that portion sizes will be adjusted as they test out the menu after opening. But, in all, the meal is good value for the money.
Cuisine
Modern Thai
We Loved
Kuruma ebi, seaweed, spicy beetroot
Amadai, Thai kale, choo chee curry
Signature grilled lobster by Chef Ton
The Vibe
The restaurant actually seats 60 and even without the three private rooms, sofa seats and a layout with many nooks and corners bring a good level of privacy for diners. Subtle Thai influences infuse the décor, transporting diners to Niras’ country of origin. There is a huge bar taking centre stage. With Chef Ton himself a qualified sommelier, pairings and drinks are obviously going to be a major part of the offerings at Niras. We were not able to see the full wine list but the wines we were served included Chateauneuf du Pape and the Czech J Stavek. Given the maze-like K11 Musea where lifts don’t connect to many floors, the restaurant is a little hard to find. Make sure you take the correct set of lifts (near Chanel).
Quick Notes
Price for two:
Four courses – HKD 2,200
Six courses – HKD 3,000
(lobster dish not included)
Address:
Shop 704, 7/F K11 Musea
Victoria Dockside, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel. 3905 3022
Opening Hours:
Monday – Sunday: 12nn – 3 pm, 6 pm – 10 pm
This story first appeared here.
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