Duddell’s has been a stalwart of Cantonese dining in Hong Kong for more than 10 years. It recently welcomed Chef Chan Yau-Leung, with impeccable credentials from one-star Michelin Fook Lam Moon and the erstwhile Guo Fu Lau, to its kitchens.
A Review of Duddell’s
Duddell’s has averaged a new chef every two years or so, as far as memory serves. Despite that, it has managed to achieve and maintain its one-star Michelin status – a testament to its consistency. Chef Chan brings with him over four decades of experience in Cantonese cuisine and was responsible for leading the now-closed Guo Fu Lau to its first Michelin star.
Our expectations were high when we arrived for our media-tasting dinner, having already heard good things. The chilled South African abalone four-head (HKD 428 each) was a stunning start to our meal. Served in an oyster shell, the abalone was tender and juicy, having absorbed all the juices from the marinade.
The fried shredded shrimp with fresh crab meat, Chinese ham, egg and bean sprouts (HKD 468) was another masterpiece. The dish requires very deft knife work in slicing and dicing the different ingredients and mastery of heat and cooking techniques. The result was a party in the mouth with strong “wok hei”.
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Barbequed pork – or char siu as we know it – has become almost de rigeur for Cantonese dining these days, with many restaurants even opting for Iberico pork. We had the BBQ pork platter (HKD 308) which comprised the usual honey-glazed local port cuts and a more unusual Sichuan spiced version – nothing really beats a good honey-glazed char siu.
The thick winter melon broth with crab meat (from the tasting menu) was a good respite before the second part of the meal. We came back to the sautéed prawn with chicken broth (HKD 398 each), which looked simple but packed a heavy punch of flavours. The prawn meat was extraordinarily bouncy and succulent.
We all love a good crispy fried chicken. In fact, we loved it so much that we had two versions of it: the signature crispy fried chicken (HKD 698). The fried chicken passe muster, with crispy skin and tender meat.
The glutinous rice version was a two-in-one slam dunk. The chicken was similarly crispy and tender, and the glutinous rice was moist and flavourful. My only complaint was that the rice was a tad too salty but that’s an easy enough solution.
We ended with a chilled ice jelly with fig, dragon fruit and bird’s nest. It’s tagged as a signature dessert but surprisingly doesn’t seem to appear on the regular menu. Still, it was refreshing and the combination of fig and dragon fruit went perfectly. The bird’s nest was, of course, a bonus!
Duddell’s may be on some Cathay Pacific flights but nothing beats having a hot meal in the restaurant proper.
Cuisine
Cantonese
We Recommend
Chilled South African abalone four-head (HKD 428 each)
Fried shredded shrimp with fresh crab meat, Chinese ham, egg and bean sprouts (HKD 468)
Sautéed prawn with chicken broth (HKD 398 each)
Crispy glutinous rice chicken (HKD 988)
The Vibe (Heading 3, bold)
When Duddell’s first opened, it provided an interesting concept with some of its space devoted to art and exhibitions. The art part of it may have slowed down a bit, no thanks to three years of Covid, but it still has an artsy vibe about it. The main restaurant is on the third floor but those who want a more casual vibe can opt for the Salon on the fourth floor. There’s an added attraction now – a new cocktail menu based on the Five Elements by in-house head mixologist, Mario Calderone.
Quick Notes
Price for two:
HKD3,000
Address:
Level 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion,
1 Dud Dell’s Street
Tel. 2424 9191
Opening Hours:
Monday to Saturday: 12nn – 3 pm, 6 pm – 11 pm
Sunday: 12nn – 3 pm, 6 pm – 10 pm
This story first appeared here.
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