Four-hands collaborations between chefs have taken off in the dining scene, especially now that the borders are fully open.
Sometimes the chefs do similar cuisines or, as in the case of Chaat x Mora, sometimes it requires them to interestingly pit subtle tastes against pungent spices.
A Review of Chaat x Mora
Art Basel week in Hong Kong was also the scene of Rosewood Hong Kong’s fourth-anniversary celebrations which saw all their dining establishments holding special chef collaborations and special activities with both local and overseas talents.
So when two of my favourite restaurants in the city announced a four-hands collaboration, I definitely didn’t think twice before saying yes. This wasn’t the first time that chef Manav Tuli has worked with a Chinese chef. Last year, chef Tuli did a highly successful four-hands with chef Adam Wong of the three-star Michelin Forum Restaurant with chef Wong matching the strong Indian flavours with his more traditional Chinese fare.
Mora, on the other hand, is dedicated fully to soy in all its different forms, which are often defined by very subtle flavours. Added to that equation, of course, is chef Vicky Lau, also the owner of the two-star Michelin TATE Dining Room, who has always been known for her refined precision. So, I knew I was in for an interesting experience.
The soy game started strong with the amuse-bouche of tofu soya croquette and soya jackfruit tart. The tofu in the croquette had the lovely same texture as the Indian cottage cheese one would find in the palak paneer. The jackfruit tart was a new take on Chaat’s usual jackfruit samosa, this time on a soya shell instead.
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Mora’s popular cold udon noodles took on an excellent masala kick which added another layer to its already rich flavours of soy milk, sakura shrimp and pickled vegetables. I found the tandoor flavours of the fermented tofu marinated tandoori octopus a bit muted, however.
The chingri malai seafood soup, which has become a firm favourite at Chaat since it was introduced last year, definitely benefitted from the soy chips, which absorbed the turmeric and coconut flavours while adding a soft crunch.
One of my highlights was the grilled seabass nilgiri korma. By all appearances, the course looked like any seared fish in what might be sauce verte; it’s only when you take your first bite that you can feel the subtle spices dance on your tongue.
No Indian meal is complete without a proper curry – ours was a Hyderabadi chicken accompanied by soya tofu kulchette and a soya champ ki biryani – before ending with the mango coconut mousse and some super smooth, super rich chocolate bonbons. And, we can’t forget the chai masala, this time made with soy milk from Mora’s sister company Añ.
Cuisine
Soy and Spice (French Chinese/Indian)
We Loved
Masala spiced udon noodles
Chingri malai seafood soup
Grilled seabass nilgiri korma
Spiced chocolate bonbon
The Vibe
I’ve always liked that Chaat seems to have a corner for every kind of occasion; you can sit near the bar for a more casual (and quieter) atmosphere. In more pleasant weather, you can also choose to sit outside and enjoy the stunning view of the harbour. The main dining room is also rather cheerful with its wall murals and comfortable seating as well as a view of parts of the kitchen.
Quick Notes
Price for two:
HKD 3,160
Address:
5/F Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside,
18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel. 3891 8732
Timings:
12:30 pm – 4 pm; 5:30 pm – 11 pm
This story first appeared here.
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