Santa Maria del Fiore (more commonly referred to as the Duomo) is, without question, the most iconic and photographed landmark in Florence.

While most visitors join the hordes of snap-happy tourists attempting to get a great shot in front of the famous Filippo Brunelleschi-engineered Renaissance cupola, there is another, more private way to soak in all the splendour — and it even offers a better vantage point.

This luxury suite offers the most stunning view of Florence’s Duomo

Just imagine waking up from a restful slumber on a plush king-size bed and drawing back the drapes to reveal unobstructed views of the largest masonry cupola in the world. The Duomo Presidential Suite at Hotel Savoy, the impressive Rocco Forte property that reigns over Piazza della Repubblica, offers unparalleled panoramas of Florence Cathedral.

But it’s not just what’s outside the large windows that matters. Occupying a separate wing, this 1,630-square-foot, two-bedroom sanctuary commands attention by virtue of its size and dazzling design — sophisticated and regal yet playful, typified by the blend of antique sculptures, sylvan wallpaper, and joy-eliciting textiles. The aesthetic feels decidedly fresh and modern for Florence, while still showing deference to Renaissance elements.

The light-filled sitting area flaunts sumptuous sofas, fanciful armchairs, bespoke bookcases accented with precious ornamental objects, and whimsical Timorous Beasties-covered cushions. Elegant white statues by Ceccarelli Ceramics and eye-popping art add to the sense of gallery-esque curation.

In keeping with the grandeur of it all, there’s a separate dining room with a dinner-party-size table, striking crystal chandelier, and bar stocked with top-shelf spirits. The Carrara marble-clad bathroom gives off a spa-like atmosphere with a jetted tub, walk-in shower, and organic, plant-powered Irene Forte Skincare toiletries.

Guests staying in the Duomo Presidential Suite also get to enjoy some posh perks, including a round-trip airport transfer, in-room check-in treatment, a welcome bottle of bubbly, unpacking service, a half-day Maserati chauffeur, and a personalised experience, which might look like a private cooking class or guided tour of Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella.

Can’t swing the USD 5,600 (INR 4,66,974) a night price tag for the Duomo Presidential Suite? Every suite at Hotel Savoy is truly resplendent in its own right and has lovely views of Florence’s historic city centre. Plus, guests keen on seeing the Duomo up close only have to walk around the corner.

(Feature image credit: Rocco Forte Hotels)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

All currency conversions were done at the time of writing 

Related: Hassler Roma: Your One-Stop Destination For An Iconic Stay In Italy 

I fell asleep as my driver pulled away from Barcelona-El Prat Airport — and woke up an hour later to vineyard-lined country roads.

We crossed a stone bridge that looked straight out of Game of Thrones, drove through the photogenic medieval town of Torroja, which is built directly into a cliff, and continued along winding roads until a pop of pink came into view: the deep coral face of Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno.

This luxury hotel is the perfect stay in Priorat, Spain

Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno

• A member of Relais & Châteaux, the new hotel is one of the most luxurious stays in Priorat, Spain, a wine region on the rise.
• There are multiple swimming pools, including an outdoor wine bottle–shaped pool overlooking grape vines and stunning warm pools in the spa.
• The restaurant might be headed for a Michelin star under the helm of young chef Josep Queralt, who serves elevated Catalonian fare and inventive tasting menus at dinner.

The hotel got more intriguing as we drove closer: a 500-year-old building, rows of arched windows, cantilevered stone, terra-cotta shingles, French balconies, and a two-toned coral-beige façade, all tidily encircled by a dining terrace abutting rows of Grenache grapes.

I arrived famished and beelined to the restaurant — very likely on its way to earning Priorat Spain’s second Michelin star. After a post-red-eye glass of cava from the nearby Penedès region and a plate of delicately grilled cod under the Catalonian sun, I was revived.

Really, I’d come to this new luxury hotel in Spain to eat and drink. Mas d’en Bruno is a new Relais & Châteaux, and the group doesn’t put its stamp of approval on a hotel unless the food is exceptional. Spoiler: it is. I reached culinary nirvana at lunch on Saturday, when I was served what can only be described as a flight of carbs — first, fideuà, a chopped pasta dish in the paella family, with roasted garlic and cuttlefish. Next, arroz negro, served in a classic red paella pan with mussels, alongside a chilled Priorat Grenache and cariñena blend. It was so sensational that I asked for the last rice dish on the menu when I returned the next evening; this one was a classic, saffron-rich paella with Tarragona prawns, spiny lobster, and piquillo peppers that I devoured down to the socarrat (that is, the caramelised rice stuck to the bottom of the pan).

The four days I spent in Priorat this fall — wining, dining, and sipping espresso on Mas d’en Bruno’s terrace while wearing excellent sweaters — is an experience someone could have had centuries ago, but not 35 years ago. Priorat was once a country seat for the Barcelona elite and a fine wine region, but phylloxera (a pest that destroys grapevines) swept through in the early 1900s, depleting the wine industry. Producers were forced out of business, farmers went broke, and the skilled winemakers left. In the 1980s, a few pioneers eager to restore Priorat’s legacy came to rebuild the wine industry — like the Pastrana family, owners of Clos de l’Obac, now one of the region’s most celebrated wineries.

As the wine scene grows, the restaurants follow, and travellers are starting to take note. The new Gran Hotel Mas d’en Bruno, which opened in May 2023, is a gateway to this inviting, storied wine enclave. Here, is my review of the hotel and why it’s the perfect home base to explore this lesser-known Spanish wine region.

The rooms

Designed by Barcelona architecture firm Estet Design, Mas d’en Bruno’s 24 rooms all capitalise on its location, offering astounding vineyard views. The room design plays with natural wood and elegant rounded edges (seen on the bed’s headboards and the curved “maxibars”). Local materials are used wherever possible; the lamps are made of Catalonia-sourced alabaster and all the marble comes from Spain. “Some of the rooms have terraces, some have gardens, some have balconies. What we try to do is have a hotel that gives you a different experience every time you come, if you want it,” said David Stein, owner of Mas d’en Bruno. “Each room is designed differently — some have dining tables, some have fireplaces, some have handmade Roman tubs.”

My room had three massive curved windows with French balconies overlooking the wine bottle-shaped concrete pool and a bathroom with a massive burgundy wine-coloured marble sink and a stand-alone soaking tub. I told Stein I wanted the coffee table, covered in opaque marble, for my living room at home, and he assured me that most of the furniture was handmade by Estet Design and would, in the future, be available for guests to buy. Of the 24 rooms, 13 are in the Masia (main house). The last 11 are in the atelier, a separate building next to the pool, and each comes with a huge terrace set in the middle of vines with an outdoor fire pit.

Food and drink

On Friday night, I sat down with Stein to try Chef Josep Queralt’s nine-course winter tasting menu. We started with amuse-bouches served on a tree figurine the chef had built himself, before moving into appetisers — goat cheese jelly on an herb cookie, over a tangle of greens from Mas d’en Bruno’s garden, and cured egg yolk on a mushroom duxelle. The artistry of chef Queralt peaks at dinner, as he flawlessly stuffs sea robin with mussels and prawns, and presents each course with stories of foraging for mushrooms on the hotel grounds.

The dining room was buzzing — and somehow, everyone knew each other. At the table near the bar sat Elizabeth Hecker, who just wrote the book “Ethos Priorat.” She led me two tables over to meet the winemakers behind Celler Família Nin-Ortiz, who were celebrating an anniversary (and have a 100-point wine on Wine Advocate). In Priorat, where the wine and hospitality community feels tight-knit and enticing in a way only a locale just showing up on US wine lists can, this restaurant made me feel like I belonged.

By day, the restaurant is called Tarraco and serves a mélange of Western Europe fare. One afternoon, I sampled foie gras ravioli with hazelnut cream and grilled heads of romaine with an unctuous, anchovy-heavy dressing. In the evenings, the restaurant becomes Vinum and serves both the chef’s tasting menu and à la carte offerings. Stein wanted to have a restaurant where guests could have a luxurious meal without needing to leave the hotel after a long day of hiking, wine tasting, or both.

Experiences and amenities

My favourite amenity at this luxury hotel was, of course, the wine bottle–shaped outdoor pool. Pools tend to be a rarity in Priorat — though, admittedly, five-star hotels are a rarity in Priorat, so there may be a correlation. I thoroughly enjoyed my time on the daybeds of an adjacent sundeck, where Mas d’en Bruno hosts periodic yoga classes. The hotel also has four electric bikes that guests can use (complimentary) at any time. Still to come is a poolside restaurant that will bring in nearby winemakers to host tastings on-site.

As for experiences the hotel can create for you, the possibilities are endless. Speak with Natalie in guest services to arrange wine tastings, tours of must-see villages nearby, and hiking and climbing in Montsant Natural Park (don’t miss lunch and a stroll through Siurana after your hike). The hotel arranged for me to visit Clos de l’Obac in Gratallops. Owned by the aforementioned Pastrana family, who is largely credited with reigniting the fine wine scene in the ’80s, Clos de l’Obac’s Wine Spectator–endorsed reds show off the best local grapes — namely, cariñena and Garnacha (or, as you might know them, carignan and grenache). Later that same day, I got a crash course in Catalonian vermut. When there was a mass winemaker exodus post-phylloxera, the farmers who stayed formed a wine co-op. The one I visited, Ètim, is in an impressive cathedral designed by a pupil of Gaudí’s and produces a particularly herbaceous Vermut Falset. There’s an entire trail of wine cooperativas (also sometimes called wine cathedrals because of the majestic structures in which they’re housed). Finally, I adored my time at Perinet Winery, where I took a tour of the gorgeous vineyards and tasted wine out of the barrels with the winemaker.

The spa

I visited the spa shortly after my arrival. There is just one treatment room, where I slipped into a jet lag–induced trance during my relaxation massage. But it was really the luxurious baths that sold me on the spa; you can even reserve them for some privacy (complimentary). “The area the spa is in was once an olive press,” Stein said. “When we put the spa in there, we renovated and restored the elements of the olive press. We had an archaeologist come in for four or five months to restore [parts of the olive press and the stone walls]. It’s symbolic of what used to be in that room.”

The centuries-old stone walls make the spa feel like upscale Roman baths. I relished having the whole space to myself as I waded into the massive main pool — the modern fountain spouting a sheet of water that looks like an anachronism next to the restored olive press — before soaking in the black-tiled hot tub.

Family-friendly offerings

Rooms can be outfitted for families — I toured one with a crib, for example, and there are adjoining suites with a shared living room that is perfect for larger families. That said, if you’re looking for a vacation with a kids’ club and unlimited children’s activities, this probably isn’t it. I recommend waiting until your children are college-age, then bringing them to experience true European wine country culture.

Accessibility and sustainability

Many (though not all) rooms in the main house are wheelchair-accessible thanks to the elevator, which goes to all three floors. However, the atelier, all on one level and with 11 rooms featuring spacious terraces, maybe the best choice accessibility-wise because there are no stairs.

Location

This luxury hotel in Spain is 83 miles (133.57 km) from Barcelona-El Prat Airport. You can easily rent a car and drive yourself there — they drive on the right side of the road. The Priorat region is best seen by car, so renting one is a smart idea. That said, you can also work with the hotel to arrange a car from the airport and transportation to all the activities Mas d’en Bruno will help you set up.

Priorat is in the state of Catalonia and the province of Tarragona. (Catalonia is home to four provinces: Barcelona, Girona, Lleida, and Tarragona.)

How to get the most value out of your stay

The most affordable rooms at the Relais & Châteaux–approved hotel are junior suites, which start at USD 427 (INR 35,595) when booked early on the website (i.e., several months in advance) for a weekend in the fall. The most expensive room in the house is Bruno’s Suite, which starts at USD 1,260 (INR 1,05,035) when booked early for an October stay. All guests are offered a welcome drink, early check-in and late checkout (if available), and free room upgrades (if available). June through August tend to be high season in Catalonia, so consider going in May, September, or October to potentially find lower prices.

(Hero and feature image credit: Maya Kachroo-Levine/Travel + Leisure)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

All currency conversions were done at the time of writing

Related: Bookmark This: Hidden Gems Of Spain Nobody Talks About!

Many hotels in Greece are bright white and curved, their smooth shapes dotting the landscape like dollops of whipped cream. Not Dexamenes Seaside Hotel, which was constructed from a former wine factory and opened in 2019 on the wild coast of the Peloponnese peninsula in southern Greece.

Its lines are industrial and angular, the colours rusty hues that call to mind grape juice stains. The hotel’s aesthetic is an entirely novel approach to Greek hospitality — and pays homage to the country’s long wine-making history.

“The factory was once very important for the local economy,” said Nikos Karaflos, the owner and manager of Dexamenes. “I was born in this area — I want to preserve the culture and history of this place.”

This luxury resort in Greece pays homage to the country’s long wine-making history

Greece’s Peloponnese region experienced a boom in wine production starting in the 1860s when the industry in France collapsed because of a phylloxera epidemic. But as the French vineyards recovered in the early 20th century and Greece suffered from an unstable agricultural market, the promising Greek industry faltered. By the early 1980s, the Dexamenes factory had fallen out of use.

In 2003, Karaflos and his family purchased the site, and in 2013 he partnered with the Athens-based architecture firm K-Studios to plan the renovation. The timing was serendipitous: after decades of producing mediocre wines, Greece’s industry was kicking into serious gear. Since then, Greek varietals, like the white assyrtiko and red agiorgitiko, have made a comeback.

The first thing you see when you enter the grounds of Dexamenes are two enormous silos in the centre of a reflecting pool. These structures were once used to store grape must; now, with their roofs removed so the stars twinkle overhead, they serve as spaces for private dinners, wine tastings, wellness events, and art installations. (A few summers ago, the hotel held a tasting accompanied by a modern dance performance in the pool.)

The 34 rooms, called WineTank suites, are housed inside concrete vats once used for fermentation; each one has clean lines and minimal décor, with the pipes that once channelled the wine still visible. (There are also two larger accommodations, the Sea View ChemLab suites.) Should you overindulge at lunch or dinner, you’ll easily fall asleep on the natural-fibre mattresses — or perk up in a walk-in rain shower.

For the full bottle list, which has a special focus on Peloponnesian wines and a whole section devoted to natural and biodynamic Greek bottlings, dine at dex. Machina restaurant, located inside the winery’s former production centre. As for the wines from the original Dexamenes factory? Karaflos and his family finally finished the last of them last year. There are new Greek wines to save for the future.

(Hero and feature image credit: Claus Brechenmacher & Reiner Baumann/Dexamenes Seaside Hotel)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

Related: This All-Suite, Luxury Hotel Just Opened In An Underrated Region In Greece 

Cosying up in a glass cabin and sleeping under the Northern Lights has always been on my bucket list. So, when we finally booked our tickets to Tromsø, Norway, my husband and I casually joked about how we would struggle to fall asleep under the shimmering green aurora in Northern Norway. Turns out, we were mistaken about every aspect of viewing the Northern Lights in Norway.  

What is the best time to see the Northern Lights in Norway? 

The optimal time to see the Northern Lights above the Arctic Circle is between late September and late March. We specifically chose late September, when the days are sunny, the skies clear and the temperature is comfortable (we are not used to brutal winters). Nevertheless, Norway’s weather can be unpredictable, so the longer you stay, the better your chances. 

Moreover, the Northern Lights activity tends to be much more intense during the equinoxes — Spring Equinox (March 21) and Autumn Equinox (September 23). While the aurora borealis is visible from late August, it is the equinox that gives this cosmic light show an extra boost often producing some of the best activity. Of course, it’s impossible to exactly predict when you can see the dancing lights – but there is something about the equinox that auroras seem to love. 

Do Northern Lights hotels and resorts guarantee aurora sightings? 

It was nearly 12 pm when we landed in Tromsø from Oslo, Noway. The sky was a mystical shade of sky blue (I was secretly smiling as I knew that clear skies increase the chances of aurora sightings). We had booked a stay at a cabin in Malangen Resort, one and a half hours outside Tromsø city. We picked up our rental car from the airport (Europcar) and navigated through the scenic road punctuated by bridges, tunnels, and mighty landscapes.    

Malangen is on the edge of civilisation, known for panoramic vistas and aurora sightings. With the hope of seeing the electric green fury while relaxing in the hot tub, we ended up spending two hours outdoors. The Arctic sauna was sure an unrivalled experience with the views of icy glaciers in the backdrop. After a delicious dinner in the resort, we waited in our cabin for the aurora to show up. We also played some old classics and filled the wine glasses. And before we could tell, we fell asleep (no aurora yet!).  

After enjoying a wholesome breakfast, the next morning, we started our journey back to Tromsø. During our leisurely drive back to the city, we were rewarded with majestic mountains, plunging waterfalls, and panoramic sea views. No matter which way we turned, there were breath-taking vistas, begging for a pitstop.  

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Where to see the Northern Lights in Norway? 

Tromsø sits 69° N right in the centre of the aurora zone and is hence the best place to see the Northern Lights in Norway. That evening, we had arranged for the “Northern Lights Chase” tour with local company ‘Polar Adventures‘ in Tromsø. However, I received an e-mail late afternoon that our tour would be cancelled due to unfavourable weather conditions. Yes, it was rainy, cloudy and windy in Tromsø. But given our limited three-day stay in the city, we were not ready to put all our eggs in one basket.

We spoke to some local tour operators in the city who were still running the tour despite harsh weather conditions. There, we learned there is always a 50 percent chance of a sighting on any given day during the season. We were lucky to find two vacant seats with another company, ‘Arctic Voyages‘. The ‘Northern Lights Chase’ tour approximately costs NOK 1400 (INR 10,633) per person.

Our first indication that this would be more of a hunt was when the guide informed us that the weather was not going to be in our favour that night. The tour would run from 8 pm until 3 am to increase the chances of our sighting, but we would have to drive to the Finnish border.  

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What causes the Northern Lights? 

As soon as we settled into the black bus (our home for the next seven hours), our guide Manek gave us a rundown on what causes these mysterious light shows. Northern Lights occur when the electrically charged particles from the sun smash into Earth’s magnetic field. When funnelled down to the magnetic poles of the northern and southern hemispheres, this ‘solar wind’ creates green, red, and blue particles that shape-shift over the Arctic Circle. The phenomenon happens constantly — all you need is cloud-free skies and darkness to see them. 

The level of activity is, however, indicated by the planetary K index or Kp. The Kp index ranges from 0 to 9. If the Kp index is between 0 to 2, the aurora is dim in intensity. For Kp in the range of 3 to 5, the aurora is brighter. For Kp in the range of 6 to 7, the aurora is pretty strong. We also installed the ‘My Aurora Forecast’ application that shows activity levels in the current location and the best locations to view the Northern Lights in real time.  

What no one tells you about the Northern Lights sightings 

I kept looking outside the window, thinking maybe I’d see some activity. However, I quickly realised that that’s exactly why it’s called a “chase”. The number of times our tour guide used the term “chasing lights”, and emphasised the word “hopefully”, was enough to make me worry. We spent the next three hours seemingly driving away from the city lights (that cause light pollution and make it impossible to get a sighting) and cloudy skies before we crept up on the Finnish border in pursuit of clear skies. As the night grew colder, we drove further into Finland. Around 11:30 pm, our guide spotted some stars in the sky, and we took a break from driving the endless array of dark roads (and occasional rain). With our spirits high, we zipped our jackets and stepped out of the bus.  

The experience was surreal and restorative. Holding my husband in the middle of the deepest night, I realised that finding the lights wasn’t the magical part. It was this journey that mattered. Just as I started to thank my stars, my eyes caught sight of the many bright stars in the night sky.  

Camera settings and more… 

After 15 minutes, we started seeing faint green trails in the sky. Now, here’s a fun fact that you may not have known until now! Interestingly, the camera picks up the lights ten times better than the naked eye. So, the many photos that you see on social media are inherently misleading — because of the lens’ superior power to capture them.  

We, however, had our cameras (with night sky settings) and tripods ready. The only way you can get a decent photo is by using a tripod. I had no idea how to use a tripod or the night-sky setting on my Android phone. Manek was sweet enough to give us a tutorial on the bus. Shooting the Northern Lights is just like shooting stars, where you need a correct long exposure. It should ideally be between 2 to 30 seconds so that you capture more than your eyes can see. You must then adjust the shutter speed and aperture to capture the Northern Lights. 

Suddenly Manek said, “Hey guys! it looks like there’s some Northern Lights out here!” Beyond excited, we wiggled around. I always imagined that Aurora Borealis would dazzle the lights out of me. But all I could see was faint streaks of light in the sky. We clicked the night sky only to discover a gorgeous shade of green adorned the sky that was not visible to the naked eye. Manek was right, they looked like greyish-green clouds, but they were still bright enough to illuminate the mountains. 

About 15 minutes into it, they gave us hot chocolate which largely helped my numb fingertips get back to life. We got back on the bus, assuming the chase was over. However, Manek informed us that we could wait for another 15 minutes as the activity was getting stronger. We decided to walk a little further down the road and discovered that the Northern Lights usually run East to West. Suddenly, the lights got stronger, appearing, and disappearing at random. I attempted to take pictures with my phone and could see them! I kept staring into the sky, secretly thanking the universe for the magical night! 

The second chase and the dancing lights 

The next day, we booked another tour, with the hope of a better sighting (you see, it never seems enough). We joined Manek on the tour along with many other new tourists and some old ones. Luckily, that day, the sky was clear. We had to drive just for an hour before we could find a spot (without any light pollution). Manek also explained that we were going to head to a location that was showing some Northern Light activity. I was a little confused when we stopped in what seemed like the middle of nowhere surrounded by pine trees. But, as soon as I heard the “woahs” from everyone outside the bus, I decided to hurry up and get my layers on.  

There, in the middle of the dark, was the Aurora Borealis which looked like the ones in the pictures. Then they soon disappeared, and they appeared again after an hour and started dancing. They looked like a silky green ribbon being waved around in the sky. They were moving fast, and I had no idea when they disappeared completely and never showed up. Auroras can go from zero to hero within minutes and vice versa.  

The Northern Lights are unpredictable and the weather in the Arctic can change in the blink of an eye. So, whenever you plan that Northern Lights trip, make sure to have a few days in hand to chase the aurora. You never know when you will get lucky. 

Related: 7 Of The Best Northern Lights Cruises

(Main and feature image credit: Tania Tarafdar)

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Where in Norway can I see the Northern Lights? 

Tromsø sits 69° N right in the centre of the aurora zone and is hence the best place to see the Northern Lights in Norway.  

Do I need to go to a specific place to see the Northern Lights, or can I see them from major cities like Oslo and Bergen? 

To catch a glimpse of the Northern Lights, you must travel to Northern Norway, above the Arctic Circle. Major cities like Oslo or Bergen are not within the Northern Lights’ viewing zones.

How can I increase my chances of seeing the Northern Lights in Norway? 

The optimal time to see the Northern Lights above the Arctic Circle is between late September and late March. Moreover, Northern Lights activity tends to be much more intense during the equinoxes — Spring Equinox (March 21) and Autumn Equinox (September 23). While the aurora borealis is visible from late August, it is the equinox that gives this cosmic light show an extra boost, often producing some of the best activity. 

What time of day is best for Northern Lights viewing? 

The Northern Lights can be seen at any time of the day if there is darkness, clear skies, and solar activity. However, the best time to see the Northern Lights is on dark, clear nights between late September and March.

What should I wear when viewing the Northern Lights in Norway? 

Wear thermal suits and jackets while chasing the Northern Lights as the temperatures can plummet significantly during these experiences. 

Are there any specific camera settings I should use to photograph the Northern Lights? 

Shooting the Northern Lights is just like shooting stars, requiring the correct long exposure. Ideally, your exposure time should range between 2 to 30 seconds to capture more than what your eyes can see. You must also adjust your shutter speed and aperture to capture the Northern Lights.

Are there Northern Lights tours available in Norway, and how do I book one? 

There are many Northern Lights tours available in Norway and you can book them online. You can also book them during your visit to Tromsø.

Is it guaranteed that I will see the Northern Lights during my trip to Norway? 

The Northern Lights are unpredictable, and the Arctic weather can change in the blink of an eye. So, whenever you plan that Northern Lights trip, make sure to have a few extra days in hand to chase the aurora.  

“Maaaamaaa!” My son, Kweli, screamed as a baby donkey named Matilda bit his big toe. By the sound of his cry, I thought the animal had taken a generous chunk — one that might necessitate an emergency speedboat trip from the island of Hvar, where we were staying, back to mainland Croatia. Thankfully, Kweli was just shaken up, and his toe was only lightly nipped, but Matilda’s overzealous greeting wasn’t an ideal start to what was supposed to be a relaxing getaway.

The preceding year had been relentless, between family health issues and COVID lockdowns, which had confined me and my six-year-old to our Zagreb apartment for more than two months and eliminated the possibility of travel, my primary beat as a writer. Around the time restrictions started to ease, I caught wind of Maslina Resort, a new beachfront property with 53 rooms and villas on the laid-back northern coast of Hvar — an island I’ve visited frequently since the early 1990s. I immediately booked a five-day escape to help us decompress.

This beachfront resort in Croatia is perfect for a single-parent holiday

Our adventure had begun with a jolt, even before the encounter with Matilda. We’d driven four hours from Zagreb to a dock outside the coastal city of Split, where the resort’s custom-crafted Colnago 45 TS speedboat was waiting for us. Kweli dug right into the cookies and sugarcoated orange peels the crew provided, and we woohoo-ed as the boat bumped through the waves — until we hit a big one that left Kweli rattled and seasick for the rest of the one-hour voyage.

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After reaching the island, we climbed into the golf cart that would take us six minutes to Maslina. As the resort’s larch-wood façade emerged from forests of Aleppo pine, both Kweli and both of us began to relax. By the time we checked into our room, with its peaceful palette of greys and greens and panoramic views of the azure Adriatic Sea, the big wave had become a hazy memory.

Somewhat ironically, our first order of business was spending some time apart. As a single mom, unbroken stretches of alone time top my list of requirements for a proper vacation, which is where Maslina’s complimentary kids’ activities program came in. Kweli could spend much of the day occupied by the toys and art projects in the playroom, leaving me free to stare at the sea.

One afternoon he made pizza with the restaurant’s chefs; I unwound with an integrative reflexology massage at the garden-to-skin Pharomatiq Spa. The next day, he joined a handful of other kids to roam the property’s lush grounds and snap artsy Polaroids, while I had a Reiki session. “Your solar plexus — the chakra that governs identity, personal freedom, and choice — is blocked,” the therapist said as our time came to an end. “You may be neglecting yourself.” The observation felt spot-on.

That evening, Kweli and I read a book on our giant bed, and snuggled together on top of the plush mattress, which was made from seaweed and coconut fibre. I left the sliding glass doors open and the soft curtains billowed in the sea breeze. Kweli fell asleep next to me, content after his off-menu dinner of chicken nuggets and fries; I drifted off soon after.

Around 2 am, I bolted awake with the feeling that my heart was about to burst out of my chest. No stranger to panic attacks, I began to breathe slowly, visualising calming images to bring me back to the present. But even after my heart slowed, something else kept me awake. Guilt is motherhood’s middle name. There I was, at a gorgeous resort where my son was treated like a prince, and I had generous blocks of time all to myself. We were safe and spoiled, just as millions around the world were living without food and shelter. So many people long for children they can’t have, yet here I was, desperate for a break from parenting.

Both motherhood and travel have a way of expanding your heart and profoundly shifting your perspective, perhaps because you’re often forced to leave your comfort zone behind. For a single parent, the one-on-one dynamic adds to the intensity of the experience. Your child looks to you for approval and a sense of safety. In a dual-parent setting, that responsibility plays out like a game of ping-pong. In our family unit, it’s just me — and the pressure doesn’t dissipate when we’re on the road.

There’s tremendous satisfaction in witnessing Kweli discover the world, and joy in being the one to shepherd these discoveries. Whether he’s chasing shadows at a light exhibit at the MAAT Museum in Lisbon, chatting with chipmunks at the zoo in Barcelona, or learning archery in the mountains near our home, standing by Kweli’s side as he tries new things and sees new places has been nothing short of extraordinary.

At Maslina, my son had befriended another boy, who was with his mother and father. I noticed with a pang the way they took turns watching over the child, gently reprimanding him if a boundary was crossed; if Kweli misbehaved, I had to be the enforcer every time.

The next morning, a tiny thorn got wedged into the sole of my son’s foot. In theory, it should’ve been an easy fix — I simply had to pull it out with tweezers. But it turned into two hours of Kweli crying on our room’s sun-dappled loggia as if I was about to perform an amputation. I tried to muster all the patience and empathy from the deepest crevices of my soul until — boom — a full-on meltdown of my own, complete with screaming, tweezer-throwing, and, worst of all, the threat of no more sweets.

Once the thorn was finally out, we were able to move on, and Kweli still had dessert later that day. (So much for consistent parenting.) We went to Maslina’s pebble beach for a stroll along the bay and a swim in the clear sea. My son loved splashing in the water, which was atypically nippy for late September; I did not. But we bonded nonetheless, both squealing when we felt the seawater hit our skin. We made the easy 30-minute walk to Stari Grad, a stone-clad settlement said to be one of the oldest towns in Europe. We wandered around the grounds of Tvrdalj, the fairy-tale castle built by Renaissance poet Petar Hektorović, with a fishpond in its inner courtyard where a school of grey mullets was swimming. We gorged on lavender ice cream from a patisserie along the seafront.

On our last afternoon, we toured Maslina’s organic garden. My son planted begonias and basil. We had a taste of super sweet stevia leaf and learned about plans for the garden’s growth.

As I looked back on my own plans for an ideal holiday, it hit me that, in travel and in parenthood, presence trumps perfection. Kweli had quickly forgotten the brief blowups, both mine and Matilda’s. All he cared about were the simple things, like dips in the pool and the sea, sugary snacks, and, most importantly, our time together. Panic attacks, donkey bites, and mommy meltdowns aside, it was exactly the reset we needed.

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(Image Credit: Maslina Resort)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

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If we’re just going by hotel openings, Paros is destined to be Greece’s newest island hot spot. And the Minois Hotel is where you should stay next.

If your idea of a Greek island holiday generally orbits around Santorini or Mykonos, it’s time to broaden your horizons. Paros, located not 50 miles (80.46 km) south of Mykonos, has been slowly gaining popularity among the jetset in the last decade (though you’ll occasionally come across a chic European who’s been vacationing here with family for much longer). But it’s really just in the last few years that its luxury hotel scene has become more exciting, which only speaks to how much more desirable Paros has become.

Bookmark this hotel to experience Greek hospitality on this stunning Island

Minois Hotel

• Minois is minutes away from the village of Parikia, the ferry port of Pounda, and Paros airport.
• The renovation unveiled a more colourful Mediterranean-inspired design scheme. All rooms come with a personality — and many come with private plunge pools.
• The food, developed in partnership with Alexandros Tsiotinis, who has a Michelin-starred restaurant in Athens, is fantastic — don’t miss the vast breakfast spread.
• The bar at Olvo Restaurant, perched over a rocky beach that faces the Aegean, is a gorgeous sunset hangout.

Last year, Marriott’s Luxury Collection brought Cosme to Paros. This year, Minois Hotel, a 44-room boutique property, draws travellers to the quieter, western edge of the island. The June 2023 reopening of Minois is particularly notable because it places guests on the other side of Paros, near Parikia (most of the other luxury hotels are closer to the larger, more popular village of Naoussa). Minois is minutes from the airport and Pounda, which is where you’ll take the ferry to the neighbouring Antiparos. Parikia is also entirely less crowded than Naoussa, but it still has charming design shops and lively restaurants, without a party atmosphere.

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This boutique resort is actually a renovated property. The bones and blueprint of the original are the same, but many millions of euros later, the energy and aesthetic are completely different. The old hotel used to be all white — mimicking the white-washed Cycladic villages you’ll find in this part of the world. The visual transformation added more playfulness and warmth to the property. So, now you’ll find terra cotta, splashes of blue, beautiful custom tile work, and lots of eye-catching textiles. (The shell-shaped shower stalls, which will undoubtedly leave wet bathroom floors, are still there as a nod to some of the cave-like hotels that you might expect on Santorini.)

Pool suites were added to the room inventory because the main pool is not very big. Food is now a major talking point for Minois, which is great because most of Paros’ best restaurants are on the opposite side of the island. There was also a massive investment in finding great staff, and guests should feel their helpfulness right away, whether that’s to secure dinner reservations or to provide advice on which beach you should hit up for the day. If there is an immediate downside that might discourage booking: there is no direct beach access at Minois. If you’re the type who wants to roll out of bed and onto the sand, know that you’ll need to walk about five minutes to the nearest beach. But, honestly, is that a big deal? Regardless of where you stay in Paros, you’ll want to drive to other beaches anyway.

Read on for everything you need to know about Minois Hotel.

The rooms

The multimillion-dollar investment into the property can be felt everywhere you go, but it’s especially valuable in the rooms and villas. Minois’ facelift took all-white interiors and brightened them up with more personality: the aesthetic, created by Athens-based architecture and design firm Mutiny, is more Mediterranean than Cycladic, with many custom-made pieces by Greek creatives. There are colourful hand-painted ceramic sinks by Amano, framed abstract paintings by Alexandra Papadimouli, dainty wall sconces by Angelos Arvanitis, and Melina Xenaki terracotta tile panels, which act as headboards. The vibe is definitely in line with modern boutique hotels.

Forty-four rooms and suites, stuffed into a few low-lying buildings, come with terraces and patios. No two units are alike, though. So some of the outdoor spaces might have sea views or direct access to the main pool. Others might have more expansive patios that don’t offer either. It goes without saying that the farther you are from the sea, the more obstructed your views of the water will be. But if water access is important, many of the studios and multi-room suites come with their own pools. The Element Private Pool Suite might be the best booking in the house: the pool extends out from the back patio all the way to the back wall, like a mini lap pool.

Food and drink

Alexandros Tsiotinis, of Athens’ Michelin-starred CTC restaurant, doesn’t just consult on the Minois’ entire culinary program, he also lent members of his team to the resort for the season. As such, the food here is more than worth trying. The breakfast service, which you can have poolside or on a terrace with views of the sea, is quite vast: spanakopita (spinach pie), loukoumades (honey-drenched doughnuts), and juicy chunks of feta share the buffet table with fresh fruit, charcuterie, and gluten-free options. The made-to-order menu of hot dishes is similarly varied: you’ve got a vegan-friendly tofu scramble, an omelette stuffed with cured pork, and crowd-pleasing fluffy pancakes.

Lunchtime dining is pretty straightforward and leans more regional than local. You’ve got a twist on a panzanella salad that uses carob bread as well as addictive beef gyro tacos. And for dessert, the bowl of loukoumades now comes with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The pool menu aims to be slightly healthier with vegan bowls and salad wraps. For drinks, the wine list has an international reach, but there are plenty of Greek makers to taste, including bottles from Paros.

If you can make it to Olvo in time for sunset, do so. From the outdoor seats right at the front edge of the terrace, you’ll get the most incredible light and colour show as the sun sinks. Again, the dining experience here is impressive. The à la carte menu is loaded with elevated Greek comfort dishes: taramosalata with vine-leaf pesto and a Parian salad with capers and tomatoes. The Josper grill is the star of the main courses, where you can spring for lamb chops with a rosemary crust or a whole fish.

The kitchen has also just rolled out an ambitious seven-course tasting menu, which seems to be the dining trend on the Greek islands. But the fare here is definitely more creative. There’s a refreshing cherry gazpacho starter topped with grilled lobster and a whimsical garlicky tagliatelle of calamari with pine nuts and olive oil that tastes like the Mediterranean on a plate.

Experiences and amenities

Upon arrival — right after you receive your welcome beverage — you’ll immediately see the biggest public draw of the hotel: the outdoor pool, which during the day acts as the social hub of the hotel. It’s not a particularly large pool, and therefore, the vibe around it depends on who’s hanging out when — things could be louder if there are more children or entirely more chill. The Minois team will be hosting more events around the pool, whether that’s live music at sunset or livelier pool parties with DJs.

There is also a well-stocked outdoor gym, which seems to be a pretty busy affair early in the morning for guests who enjoy a pre-breakfast sweat session. And there’s a spacious platform toward the back of the resort where guests can take DIY yoga. (It’s especially beautiful during sunset.) But Minois hopes to host official fitness classes there in the future. Because it is the rebrand’s first summer, programming is still quite limited, but more is planned for upcoming seasons. This could include everything from sunset beach picnics to traditional crafts-making with local artisans to a hike that leads to salt harvesting not far from the resort. There’s a nearby rocky bay where you can find teeny-tiny salt pools.

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Aura spa

Aura Spa is tucked in the basement of one of Minois’ buildings. While it’s admittedly dark and not particularly spacious down there (there are two treatment rooms and a sauna), there is a robust service menu that includes everything from hydrating facials, reflexology, and different types of body scrubs and massages featuring body and skin care products from natural Greek brand Apitiva. If you’d rather not descend into the spa to have your treatment, the team can administer most of what’s on offer in your room or suite (that’s what I’d recommend).

Accessibility and sustainability

Because of the layout of the property and the buildings on it, there are no ADA-compliant rooms. Sustainability measures are constantly evolving. At the moment, the most obvious is the use of paper straws and water bottles in an attempt to minimise the use of plastic. Minois aspires to one day become part of Small Leading Hotel’s Considerarte Collection, which is reserved for member hotels that commit to very comprehensive sustainability programs, including social and community initiatives.

Family-friendly offerings

While there isn’t a dedicated kids’ club, Minois can arrange for child care. Larger suites with private pools are a popular choice with families. And some rooms come with larger sofas that can be used as an extra single bed.

The location

Paros is a sizable Greek island so if you’re keen to do some exploring, rent a car. Minois is a convenient 10-minute drive to the village of Parikia, Paros airport, and the port of Poundia (that’s where you can grab the 10-minute ferry to Antiparos, which is a fantastic day trip).

Naoussa, the main and most popular town of Paros, is on the northern tip of the island. On average, the drive out there from Minois should take 20-25 minutes. But as Paros becomes more popular, the traffic gets worse. So, what should be 20-25 minutes could also take an hour depending on when you’re striking out from the hotel.

Finding the best value

Minois is a member of Small Luxury Hotels (SLH), and if you book through SLH, you can usually score 10 percent off the best available rates. SLH also has a complimentary loyalty program called Invited which comes with more perks: 10 percent off bookings, late check-out, room upgrades, complimentary breakfast, and more. (Membership features a tier system, meaning the perks you get depend on the number of nights you book through SLH as an Invited member.)

Minois Hotel closes for the season at the end of October and reopens in April.

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(Hero and feature image credit: Minois Hotel)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

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In the early afternoon, my family and I strode out of a beech forest and onto a sweep of high grassland, where an expanse of oak trees stood like solitary guards. A picnic was waiting for us, with goulash cooking over a fire and a table laid with a bright, cherry-coloured cloth. 

This was the Breite, one of Europe’s best-preserved wood pastures, a type of forest that is managed through grazing. It was here, deep in Transylvania, that the Saxons — Germanic people who arrived in Romania in the 12th century — used to come to fatten their pigs on the plentiful acorns. Some of the Breite’s oldest trees, with deep grooves in their bark, have towered since the Middle Ages. “These furrows are home to the great capricorn beetle,” Peter Suciu, our guide, told us. The insects are rare in other parts of Europe that have lost their old trees, the beetles’ preferred habitat.

These two new chic hotels will give you another reason to visit Transylvania

Transylvania, Romania’s largest and most famous region, is a place where blacksmiths still mould metal, shepherds live alone with their flocks, and hay is cut with scythes. It’s a land of villages with terra-cotta-tiled homes and vast wildernesses where bears, wolves, and lynx patrol primaeval forests.

In the clearing, Suciu showed us how to cook slănină, cured slabs of pork fat, on sticks over the flames. “This is one of our most popular foods,” he said as we dripped its delicious, hot, golden juice onto hunks of freshly baked bread. We had met Suciu earlier that day, when he collected us from Bethlen Estates Transylvania, in the medieval village of Criș, where I was staying with my husband and two young sons. Only in the past several years have accommodations opened in these places, offering travellers the chance to experience a way of life that feels bygone.

For centuries, Romania was a place of turbulence. Having been claimed by a number of history’s great empires — the Romans, the Ottomans, and the Austro-Hungarians — it was consistently under attack. More recently (from 1948 to 1989), the country operated as a satellite state of the Soviet Union.

For nearly two decades, Count Miklós Bethlen, who had grown up in the family’s castle in Criș, lived in exile. He returned in 1967 and, until his death in 2001, was devoted to restoring the village and its properties, which had fallen into disrepair during the Communist era. This restoration has been continued by his widow, Countess Gladys Bethlen, and her son, Miklós, who now run a collection of accommodations occupying historic buildings on their sweeping family lands. Bethlen Estates first opened to guests in 2018 with the Caretaker’s House, which has four bedrooms, a full kitchen, a sauna, a pool, and a library. A two-bedroom Saxon-style cottage, Depner House, opened in 2021, as did the four-bedroom Corner Barn (originally used for storing hay). The Bethlens are also renovating the village’s old Saxon schoolhouse.

We’d arrived at the Caretaker’s House after crossing a wooden bridge over a stream and then following a winding path. Dormer windows protruded from the pitched roof like sleepy crocodile eyes. Inside, the bedrooms had sumptuous linens and traditional tiled stoves.

Days at Bethlen are simple but sublime. One afternoon we whizzed across meadows on e-bikes; it was April, and we could see the snow-streaked peaks of Romania’s highest mountains, the Făgăraș Range, on the horizon. Another day we walked to the village of Malancrav, before realising we might be late for dinner. After lively negotiations with a local family, we rode back through the forest on their horse-drawn cart (rattling down hills so fast that I was a little terrified, but my children were delighted). The red wool tassels on the horse’s harness — believed to protect against the evil eye — caught the air as we went.

Thanks to our shortcut, we made it in time to sit down in the communal dining barn. First, tomato soup with sour cream and caviar, then Hungarian Mangalica pork with spring vegetables, followed by chocolate torte with peach marmalade. The Countess told us of her late husband’s love of the area. “His roots remained so deeply entrenched in this land that our children had to beg him to stop telling stories of his childhood,” she said with a gutsy laugh. Later, as my family and I strolled back up the hill to bed, I could imagine the estate’s former grandeur as I looked at the ruins of the granary and, in the distance, the Renaissance-era Bethlen Castle, where the family had lived at the height of its aristocratic power.

After several days at Bethlen, we drove an hour east to Viscri, one of Transylvania’s best-preserved Saxon villages, with pastel-coloured houses leading up to its UNESCO-listed fortified church. One of them belongs to Britain’s King Charles III, although it’s easy to pass by without knowing — his heraldic badge is discreetly stuccoed into the home’s blue walls.

Our home for the next few days was another old residence and farm, Viscri 125, which has been restored into a stylish, simple guesthouse with 11 rooms. The owners, Mihai and Raluca Grigore live next door with their three children. “We moved here from Bucharest in 2007 because we loved the architecture of the village, being in nature, and the community,” Raluca told me.

One evening we ate at the home of Gerda Gherghiceanu, the Grigores’ neighbour, who hosts meals for hotel guests. After dinner she showed us her cellar, where she stores jars of homemade jams, stewed fruits, and pickled vegetables, all made with produce from her own orchards and gardens.

Leaving Gherghiceanu’s house just before twilight, we watched as hundreds of farm animals streamed up the road with an orchestra of hooves and bells. In spring, when the grass flushes green, the herds return home from grazing in the hills each nightfall by themselves. First the goats, then the cows, then the water buffalo with their long black snouts. It was a sight that felt timeless, as the sun turned everything gold.

How to get to Transylvania

Most visitors will begin their trip in Bucharest, the Romanian capital. From there it is a four-hour drive northwest to the border of Transylvania. The best way to visit the region is with the help of a tour operator: I went with Romania Private Tours, which can create customised itineraries incorporating stays at Bethlen Estates Transylvania, in the village of Criș, and Viscri 125, in the village of Viscri, plus excursions like horseback riding, hiking, foraging, cooking classes, and dinner with a local family.

(Hero and feature image credit: Kate Eshelby)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

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Costa Navarino, a sun-drenched slice of Greece’s Peloponnese Peninsula, may not be a household travel name like Mykonos or Santorini. But this scenic region, steeped in ancient history, has become one of the premier luxury destinations in Greece and Europe with premium hotels, world-class golf courses, and stunning gold-sand beaches. So, it’s no surprise that Mandarin Oriental chose Costa Navarino for its first Greek outpost, which opened on August 15.

“Our vision is to invite our guests to discover one of the Mediterranean’s most idyllic beachfront destinations on the Peloponnese with exceptional wellness, dining, sports, and leisure experiences, as well as authentic immersive cultural and historical experiences,” Raul Levis, the property’s general manager, told Travel + Leisure.

This luxury hotel just opened in Greece’s Costa Navarino

Boasting 99 suites and stand-alone villas with sea views, the resort is a beautiful example of biophilic architecture, by the Athens-based firm Tombazis & Associates Architects.

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Wood accents and natural stone are paired with chic contemporary decor, high-end finishes, and references to the area’s historical sites and local crafts (the rugs, for example, are inspired by traditional Greek dress-weaving practices). Each villa has a private plunge pool and a spacious outdoor deck.

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“If you stay at our villas, they are completely incorporated into the environment with landscaped rooftops. As a guest, you will feel as if you are on a green hill overlooking Navarino Bay,” Levis explained, noting that the villas are designed with enough space between them to ensure the guests have complete privacy.

Chef Bertrand Valegeas, who has previously worked with Four Seasons, One&Only, St. Regis, and Waldorf Astoria hotels, leads the resort’s culinary programming. Among the five restaurants and bars, Oliviera stands out for its beautiful location, with sweeping bay views and a diverse à la carte menu of international flavours. Levantine cuisine (the Levant region encompasses roughly Lebanon, Syria, Israel, Cyprus, and Jordan) prepared with fresh local produce is the star of Tahir Restaurant.

On-site wellness offerings include a spectacular indoor/outdoor 82-foot swimming pool with panoramic bay views, a Hammam, an herbal sauna, and a diverse array of spa treatments.

Nightly rates at Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino, start from EUR 990 (INR 88,073), but if you book your stay by October 31, 2023, you can take advantage of the resort’s opening offer that includes complimentary daily breakfast for two, resort credit, and more.

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(Hero and feature image credit: Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino)

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All currency conversions were done at the time of writing

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Despite a reputation for decadence, Italy has a centuries-old wellness culture, thanks to the hiking traditions of the Dolomites and the profusion of hot springs in Tuscany. Cleanses, intermittent fasting, and kale? Not so much. But new offerings from some of the country’s best hotels have encouraged even diehard pasta-and-red-wine fanatics to get with the program. 

The poster child for this shift is Palazzo Fiuggi, an hour south of Rome. The property’s namesake town is locally renowned for its thermal baths and mineral-rich drinking water; since the Middle Ages, it has been a magnet for health seekers — including, according to legend, Michelangelo. The palazzo itself is a more recent development, originally built in 1910.

The Ranch, a California wellness retreat recently opened in Italy

It opened in its current iteration in 2021 after a renovation added all the trappings of a wellness wonderland: the 64,500-square-foot spa has both thalassotherapy and Turkish baths, as well as whirlpools, saunas, three swimming pools (both indoor and outdoor), and yoga and Pilates studios.

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Palazzo Fiuggi has an array of spa programs, but what caught my eye was a seven-day intensive in partnership with the Ranch, the famed Malibu, California, health centre known for its hard-core approach. Though most guests arrive for some Tuscan R&R, my week included four-hour hikes — not to mention calorie restrictions — that pushed me to my physical limits, in a good way. And the work was tempered by spectacular views of the Apennine Mountains, as well as delightful curiosities like crossing an ancient Roman bridge and running into a truffle hunter on the job.

While meals were light, they nevertheless included Ranch-ified versions of Italian classics, including vegan parmigiana and brodo (bone broth). We had regular restorative massages and yoga classes, as well as consultations with the on-site medical team to monitor progress. For any decadence, we had to rely on the guest rooms — think restored frescoed ceilings, Murano glass chandeliers, and marble bathrooms.

But my favourite way to unwind was to lounge in a fluffy robe by the spa’s Roman-style thermal baths, swigging cups of Fiuggi’s famous salty-sweet mineral water. It was a reminder that even during a rigorously active schedule, the pleasures of Italy were never far away.

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(Hero and feature image credit: Tyson Sadlo/The Ranch at Palazzo Fiuggi)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

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For wine lovers across the globe, Burgundy is the holy grail of pinot noir and chardonnay, and for good reason — the region’s roots in viticulture date all the way back to the second century AD, and you’ll find nods to its winemaking styles and two primary cépages all throughout the New World.

It’s an intriguing location choice for Christina Ong, the hôteliere and entrepreneuse behind Como Hotels & Resorts, who selected a small, sleepy town nestled in Burgundy’s Côte-d’Or for the brand’s first foray into France and 16th hotel.

This luxury hotel in France is perfect for wine lovers

Como Le Montrachet

• Como Le Montrachet is Como Hotels & Resorts’ first foray into France.
• The restaurant has a stunning terrace and a cheese cart — and serves primarily local wine, from the 17,000-bottle selection.
• The intimate resort in a small Burgundy wine town has only 30 rooms.

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The village of Puligny-Montrachet has just 376 residents, and its town square — now home to Como Le Montrachet — is as tranquil as the vineyards that surround it. Known primarily for its white wine production, Puligny-Montrachet has long been a respected name when it comes to Burgundy despite its relatively remote location — about an hour south of Dijon and almost two hours north of Lyon.

Within Como Le Montrachet’s three buildings, the hotel’s 30 rooms and suites are outfitted in one of three distinct colourways — soft grey, deep blue, and sage green, “echo[ing] the shades of the French countryside,” Ong says. Each has intricate 18th-century Toile de Jouy motifs inspired by material scraps collected from local markets. The Toile de Jouy repeats on long, dramatic drapes throughout the common spaces, this time in austere black and white.

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Despite opening its doors this spring, Restaurant Como Le Montrachet has quickly become a favourite of local Burgundians, resident ex-pats, and oenotourists alike. It’s in the early stages of its organic buzz, and there’s a sense of excitement from couples and families dining on the terrace in the warm summer breeze. Chef Romain Versino, an Ardèche native whose affinity for modern French cuisine reflects the hotel’s contemporary-classic mood quite elegantly, has his own interpretation of Como’s fil rouge: a “deep commitment to holistic wellness, exceptional nutrition-rich cuisine, and inspiring destinations that honour the spirit of place,” he says.

The menu, which changes seasonally, currently features highlights like a beet tartare adorned with algae tuile, a golden John Dory filet with artichokes and pressed spinach drizzled in a light sauce of cockles and confit lemon and grain-crusted squab accompanied by grilled white asparagus and shallot in various forms.

The wine list, of course, is a work of art, showcasing around 1,300 wines with about 17,000 bottles in the hotel’s caves (the wines are almost exclusively from Burgundy, though there are a few outliers for variety’s sake). Head sommelier André Berthier and his team are eager to share the best of Burgundy, from local favourites like Sylvain Langoureau, Jean-Michel Guillon, Olivier Leflaive, and Domaines du Château de la Crée and Evenstad. There’s also a generous handful of cuvées from the internationally coveted Domaine de la Romanée-Conti — in other words, a collector’s dream. Como Le Montrachet’s team is also ready to curate experiences for guests throughout the area, to local villages like Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits and beyond.

With enough dedication, hotel guests can taste their way through Versino’s menus over the course of a few days and nights without tiring of his style, and the pairing possibilities are endless (especially for those without budget constraints). It’s worth dining here at least twice, even if just to experience both the interior of the restaurant and its peaceful, lush terrace. And Berthier’s team is an excellent usher into the world of Burgundy and its many appellations (84, to be exact). But whatever you do, don’t miss out on the chariot de fromages (cheese cart) — an aerated, refrigerated rolling selection of cheeses curated by local maître fromager (master cheesemonger) Alain Hess.

The future of Como Le Montrachet looks promising — with plans for a pool and spa to open in the coming years, travelling oenophiles have even more reason to visit Puligny-Montrachet, and for longer periods of time. For a brand that’s only just getting its feet wet in France, Como’s got the concept of joie de vivre down to a science.

Rooms at Como Le Montrachet start at USD 602 (INR 49,859) a night, and you can book at comohotels.com.

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(Hero and feature image credit: Martin Morrell/COMO Le Montrachet)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

All currency conversions were done at the time of writing

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