The sight of kash phool (saccharum spontaneum plant) swaying against a clear blue sky with soft white clouds in the background is enough to signal that Durga Puja is just around the corner. Fondly known as ‘Pujo’ by Bengalis, it is not merely a festival but a larger-than-life celebration for the entire community. Enormous idols of Maa Durga, magnificent pandals, glitzy lighting, elaborate decorations, and heartwarming Bengali cuisine — all of these and more encapsulate the essence of Durga Puja. Planning to visit various places in India to celebrate Durga Puja 2023? This comprehensive guide has got you covered.
It’s not just Kolkata; other cities, including Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore, Varanasi and Puri transform into vibrant carnival-like atmospheres for five days, embracing Durga Puja with open arms and folded hands amid the rhythmic beats of the dhaak (a type of drum) and lively festivities. It’s no wonder that Durga Puja was inscribed on the UNESCO Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2021.
Save the dates: Durga Puja 2023 schedule
The Navratri festival, which predominantly falls in October, spans nine days. However, Durga Puja is primarily celebrated for five days, starting on the sixth day, known as Shashthi. In some places, the celebrations kick off on the fifth day or Panchami. Notably, the first day, or Mahalaya, is considered auspicious as it marks the beginning of Devi Paksha and end of Pitru Paksha. On this day, people pay homage to their ancestors in the form of tarpan.
Years ago, people used to listen to Mahishasur Mardini on the radio, especially on Mahalaya. This musical recital, also called Agomoni, features devotional songs and chants in Bengali and Sanskrit to invoke the Goddess. Interestingly, many still observe the ritual by listening to it on YouTube.
Durga Puja 2023 dates:
Mahalaya: October 14, Saturday
Maha Shashthi: October 20, Friday
Maha Saptami: October 21, Saturday
Maha Ashtami: October 22, Sunday
Maha Navami: October 23, Monday
Vijaya Dashami: October 24, Tuesday
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Why do we celebrate Durga Puja?
According to Hindu mythology, demon king Mahishasur was granted invincibility through a boon from Lord Brahma. This made it impossible for any god to defeat him, and he wreaked havoc. To restore peace, all the gods came together and created a divine entity in the form of Maa Durga. The battle between the goddess and the demon raged on for ten days, culminating in Maa Durga’s victory and the defeat of the evil Mahishasur on the tenth day. This event symbolises the ‘triumph of truth over evil’ and is celebrated as Vijaya Dashami. Mahalaya is believed to be the day of Maa Durga’s creation.
Durga Puja is not confined to India but is celebrated around the world, especially in countries with a significant presence of Indian and Bengali communities, including the US, the Netherlands, Germany, Nepal and Hong Kong.
In addition to Maa Durga, the pandals also host idols of Lord Ganesha, Lord Kartikaye, Goddess Lakshmi and Goddess Saraswati.
Pujo and pandal hopping
As the saying goes, “Let’s skip to the best part.” Durga Puja and pandal hopping are synonymous not only for Bengalis but for everyone who loves exploring new places and savouring delicacies during festivals. In many cities, pandal hopping is a dedicated activity that requires time and effort.
If you happen to be in Kolkata for Durga Puja, consider indulging in pandal hopping during the early hours to avoid the rush, crowds and long queues. The theme-based pandals in Kolkata are nothing short of marvels, with some replicating famous landmarks like the Seven Wonders of the World or Bahubali’s Mahishmati. These incredible structures are the result of months of hard work and dedication by skilled artisans.
In Kolkata in 2023, some of the must-visit pandals include Sreebhumi Sporting Club, reportedly themed after Disneyland Paris, Santosh Mitra Square with the theme of Adhodhya Ram Mandir, and College Square Sarbojanin, promising a glimpse of the majestic Mysore Palace. Other notable pandals include Suruchi Sangha, Ekdalia Evergreen Club and Dum Dum Park, Tarun Sangha.
For those in Delhi, popular pandals to visit include CR Park Durga Puja Pandal, Matrimandir Safdarjung Enclave, Kashmiri Gate and New Delhi Kalibari. If you plan to explore Mumbai, consider visiting Bombay Sarbojanin Durga Puja Samity in Juhu, Lokhandwala Durgotsav Pandal in Andheri or Thakur Village Bengali Association in Kandivali. You might even spot your favourite celebrities at the pandals in Mumbai, as the one in Juhu is frequented by stars like Kajol, Jaya Bachchan and Rani Mukherjee, known as Mukherjee Bari Pujo, while the one in Andheri has singer Abhijeet Bhattacharya as its president.
How to make the most of Pujo?
If you are travelling to Kolkata or any other city for Durga Puja, be prepared for large crowds. Be patient as you might encounter queues, traffic jams and long walks, especially since most places have parking areas located quite far from the pandals. However, don’t forget to immerse yourself in the authentic Bengali culture, as it is the heart and soul of Durga Puja. While the list of activities is endless, here are some rituals and events you can participate in or observe with admiration:
Pushpanjali and aroti: On Shaptami, Ashtami and Navmi mornings, devotees visit their society pandals in new outfits and offer flowers to the deity after performing chants guided by the priest. This ritual is followed after a short fast and people eat only after that. In the evenings, people dress in their traditional best for aroti, where Maa Durga is worshipped with numerous offerings, including firelit oil lamps made of brass, accompanied by the resonating sounds of the dhaak, creating a divine atmosphere.
Danuchi Naach: A beloved Bengali tradition loved by all, Danuchi Naach involves dancing to the beats of the dhaak while holding a cup-shaped clay incense burner in hand. Women draped in gorgeous sarees, often in the colours of red and white, can be seen performing this traditional dance during aroti, alongside men dressed in stunning kurta-pajamas or dhotis.
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Cultural activities: Many societies host a variety of cultural events and activities, including musical performances, stage shows, plays and competitions. One such traditional competition is Shankha Dhwani, where participants blow the conch shell. The winner is the person who can hold their breath and blow the conch shell for the longest time. Additionally, many societies organise Agomoni after months of practice and rehearsals.
Bhog: While you have the option to visit Bengali restaurants during Pujo, which serve special meals including various vegetarian and non-vegetarian delicacies, you can’t miss out on bhog served at most pandals. A typical Bengali bhog consists of khichudi (cooked rice and lentils), labda (a preparation made using green vegetables, potatoes and radishes), aloo kopir torkari (potato and cauliflower curry), tomator chatni (tomato chutney) and payesh (rice dessert). In the evening, be sure to try the street foods at the stalls outside, especially phuchka.
Sandhi pujo: Legend has it that Lord Rama invoked Goddess Durga before his battle with Ravana during the Sandhi Kshan. During this time, he was ready to sacrifice his eyes, but Maa Durga appeared and asked for a lotus instead, as his eyes resembled the flower. The Sandhi Pujo ritual is observed on Ashthami, with Maa being offered 108 lotuses, and 108 clay lamps are lit for her. This prayer ceremony often takes place around midnight or in the afternoon, depending on the muhurat.
Sindur anushthan and visarjan: Married women enjoy this ritual, which is akin to a mini Holi or the festival of colours. On the last day, women put vermillion powder on Maa’s forehead and then apply it on each other before bidding farewell to Maa Durga. Post this, all the idols are carried in trucks in grand processions filled with music, dance and energy, while people shout slogans of ‘asche bochor abar hobe’ (it will happen again next year) and the dhaak players enthral everyone. Finally, the idols are immersed in a nearby water body, preferably in holy rivers, marking the visarjan ceremony.
But wait, the story doesn’t end here! Bengalis have post Pujo celebrations too. They visit each other’s houses after Vijay Dashmi, exchange greetings, and savour scrumptious dishes, preceded by warm hugs. So here’s wishing everyone a ‘Happy Pujo!’
(Hero and featured image credit: Bappa Pabritra/Shutterstock)
Related: Durga Puja 2023: Here’s How Different Indian States Celebrate The Festival
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
When does Durga Puja occur?
Durga Puja falls in the seventh month of the Hindu calendar (September-October).
What are the main days of Durga Puja?
The main days of Durga Puja are Shashthi, Shaptami, Ashtami, Navmi and Dashmi.
How is Durga Puja celebrated?
Durga Puja celebrations are nothing less than a carnival where the city is decked up to welcome Maa Durga.
Where is Durga Puja most celebrated in India?
Durga Puja is celebrated in almost every city in India, but majorly in Kolkata and other places in West Bengal, Odisha and Assam.
What is the significance of the Durga Puja festival?
Durga Puja signifies the ‘triumph of good over evil’ as it was during this time that Goddess Durga defeated the demon king Mahishasur.
Can non-Hindus participate in Durga Puja celebrations?
Yes, everyone who wishes to participate in Durga Puja celebrations can happily enjoy it.
What are some traditional dishes served during Durga Puja?
Traditional dishes served for bhog during Durga Puja include khichudi (cooked rice and lentils), labda (a preparation made using green vegetables, potatoes and radish), aloo kopir torkari (potato and cauliflower curry) and payesh (rice dessert).
Is there a specific dress code for attending Durga Puja festivities?
There is no specific dress code for attending Durga Puja festivities, but some Bengali women wear white sarees with red borders on the eighth and tenth day. Anything traditional is a good idea.
Can tourists participate in Durga Puja celebrations in India?
Yes, everyone can participate in Durga Puja celebrations in India.
Are there any special safety precautions or guidelines during Durga Puja, especially for crowded events?
While there are no special safety precautions or guidelines for Durga Puja, some individual societies issue them for their pandals. However, considering the crowds, it is advisable to attend such events only if you don’t have any underlying health conditions that could worsen amid crowds. Also, it is important to exercise extra caution when accompanying children, especially while standing in queues.
Written By
Pyusha Chatterjee
A journalist, Pyusha has previously worked with media organisations including The New Indian Express and Hindustan Times. A solo traveller by choice, she loves exploring life more than anything else, after food of course. When she isn't gardening, writing, reading, cooking or singing out loud, you can spot her watching films and series, debating with ..Read More
