Delicious food comes with a side of art at Circle Sixty Nine, a chic new bistro that is turning eyeballs in Mumbai.
Why can’t eateries showcase art? It makes the point quite suitably at this new bistro at Worli, Mumbai. FN Souza, MF Husain and Shilo Shiv Suleman grab attention amid a curation of small plates, making your dining here a sensory experience in more ways than one. Art vies with food, the interiors vie with nature – a perfect yin and yang in so many things, which is just what Circle Sixty Nine denotes.
TL Tastings
A Review of Circle Sixty Nine, Mumbai
The quiet luxury aesthetic has made welcome inroads into our lives, from our wardrobes to our travel experiences. It could also be the defining factor at a bistro at Worli. From an enveloping green walkway into the premises where the silence is broken by the sound of rustling leaves, birds and softly falling rain; to a beautiful minimalist-themed indoor dining area, Circle Sixty Nine is the haven you probably want, when you look for an escape from your day.
Ambience
Muted and earthy greets the eye in the large room at Circle Sixty Nine. The place takes after owner Sangita Kathiwada’s love for art. It’s everywhere you look — from the art-deco building it’s housed in, to the walls of the dining room that are adorned by famous works. You’ll find MF Husain sketches as well as smaller ceramic pieces from Kathiwada’s own collection. However, the centrepiece grabs attention. It is a mural by award-winning artist Shilo Shiv Suleman depicting day and night, which also makes for a backdrop to the largest table.
Over soft notes of jazz, I notice there are no trappings of ostentatious décor or bright elements, something they deliberately stayed away from, as Kathiwada affirms, “Yes, I wanted it to be a place like that. Food interests me, yes, but not the business of it; I love everything that is creative around it. So, it took time to choose each element–from the velvet upholstery to ensuring the chairs have the right design. I remember telling my son I wanted to have a pair of lamps to embody the circle theme that you find running through the place, and when he came across this pair of beautiful pendant lamps, it seemed just perfect!”
We Recommend:
Salads
The food also does the talking and nothing overcomplicates. Aditi Dugar of Masque Restaurant has steered the menu here. It is an extension of the ethos of the bistro. No long-page views; just a careful curation of dishes. There is a Roasted Beetroot and Orange salad (INR 525), perked up with orange and chilli dressing and pine nuts, but I’m keen to savour something the chef highly recommends: the Goat Cheese Stuffed Shishito Peppers (INR 575).
It’s a delicious surprise! The dish is an artful assemblage of raw mango ceviche, fired up with a mango-jaggery amba dressing placed over milder shishito peppers filled with cheese. The sweet-sour flavours are just about the right foil to each other (more yin and yang at play?).
Another dish for power-lunchers would be the Edamame Avocado Salad (INR 525), tossed with crunchy snow peas, avocado and a light palm jaggery sauce.
Small Plates
If you’re in a group, it makes sense to do more than a few small plates as pass-arounds. Try the 69 Layer Lasagna (INR 725), served with chicken bolognese over a base of bechamel sauce and finished with basil oil; or the Zaatar Sourdough bowl (INR 450), where Middle-Eastern fare gets an elevated twist. It’s interesting to see warm sourdough paired with hummus, tahini and harissa atop a bed of chickpeas, with the innovative addition of Bhavnagari chillies! “That’s our unique twist,” explains Dugar,“Our vision was to provide extravagant reimagined European small plates, infused with Mediterranean influences and prepared with a local touch.” Seafood lovers may go for the Grilled Tiger Prawn (INR 825), where a smoky-sweet Chipotle sauce is in harmony with orzo pasta.
Dessert
Make sure you have room for dessert. I try the Raspberry and Blueberry Phyllo (INR 550) — an almond financier baked in phyllo shell, crunchy on the outside and cakey in the middle, served with coconut cream and vanilla bean ice cream. This is a standout! Evoke some nostalgia with a good ol’ warm chocolate fondant custard (INR 550) or on a warmer day, order the mulberry and limoncello sorbets (INR 400).
Our Takeaway
It’s just over a month since Circle Sixty Nine opened its doors, but it’s already becoming a sanctuary for those who’ve visited here. Kathiwada reveals how several art and culture aficionados come in from their adjoining members-only club. “They like to stay on and dine here, and so often we have corporates who have turned regulars; they take the table for tea and stay on for dinner,” she says.
Another gem is the beautiful outdoor area with little wrought iron tables set under a tapestry of green, giving out that secret-garden feel. They’re planning a special menu to suit that vibe, so get set to enjoy your meal in that space. For now, snag a table by the window indoors as you watch the rain and tuck into the simple, yet tasteful fare.
Circle Sixty Nine
Timings: 10:00 am to 11:00 pm (by reservations only)
Address: Circle Sixty Nine, Kathiwada City House, 69, Sir Pochkhanwala Road, Worli, Mumbai.
Price for two: starting INR 3,000 + (approximately)
Reservations: +91 8169894240
Related: TL Tastings: The Iconic Indian Accent Has Arrived In Mumbai, And Here’s What It Looks Like!
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
– Does Circle Sixty Nine have gluten-free options?
The menu at Circle Sixty Nine has marked the dishes that are gluten-free. This includes all the salads, Smoked Corn-Fed Chicken, Roasted Cauliflower, Confit Duck Leg, to name a few.
– Does Circle Sixty Nine have vegan options?
Circle Sixty Nine can customise certain dishes for vegan diners. This includes Fazzoletti Arrabbiata; Grilled King Oyster & Enoki Mushroom; Tempeh, Sweet Potato & Black Bean Burger, to name a few.
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