In their rush for popular addresses, hordes of visitors to the Andaman Islands neglect the languid Port Blair entirely. Here’s why they’re making a big mistake.
The gathering of four to five chai stalls couldn’t care less. Excitable tourists are tolerated, chai addicts are welcomed, and idle writers are viewed through a curious gaze—all with that special brand of nonchalance so specific to island life. As you sip unhurriedly on a small glass of chai with a sweet, ginger-rich aroma, the backdrop wraps itself around your imagination.
First Impressions
Up ahead, a short boat ride away on the Andaman Sea, lies Ross Island. Once a fabled address christened the ‘Paris of the East’—replete with a pulsating social life, a printing press, an exquisitely appointed grand ballroom with flooring of rare padauk wood and the dreamlike splendour of an opera house—it now rests in ruins as a theatre of enigmas. Decrepit cathedrals, fragments of buildings that once were, and the ghosts of better days lie ensnared in the embrace of age-old banyans and the voraciousness of plant and animal life. A few light beams and sound checks reveal that it’s almost time for the daily (except Wednesdays) Sound & Light Show—a riveting presentation of the island’s origins.
Closer to the Aberdeen Jetty, boats of all sizes and capabilities bob about on the water, either taking passengers across to Ross or simply lying anchored, having been done with the day. The evening breeze has reduced Port Blair’s yearlong balminess and humidity to a pleasing mélange of sea, sky, clouds, and desire. This is the special cocktail of island life. Not much happens, but the heart gets stirred.
Exploring Port Blair
Cycles, scooters, and cars stream from or towards the nearby Aberdeen Bazaar. One road snakes from the college and past the strangely ghost-like Sinclair Hotel, towards the coconut tree-crested Corbyn’s Cove. This is a road that coastal postcards are made of—corners dotted with coconut trees almost jutting out into the sea; rock configurations against which the sea laps gently or crashes with ferociousness, depending on mood; sudden swerves and swoops that make this road a favourite car drive for most locals; and sunrises that seem as though they’ve been plucked out of cinematic folklore. The road that drifts away towards the other direction entirely holds possibly even more texture. Foreshore Road is a mainly coast-hugging drive that spans one large portion of Port Blair— passing through small fishing clusters, large ships that lie abandoned, the central Phoenix Bay Jetty, lazy suburbs of old homes and crumbling histories—duly culminating in Haddo and onwards to Chatham Jetty, which ferries vehicles and humans to other islands.
Port Blair, the capital of Andaman and Nicobar Islands is a land ripe with historical significance, the remnants of past revolutions and great wars, and topography that elicits poetry. Around five in the morning, the island is bathed in bright sunshine. Similarly, dusk and then darkness descend quickly, swallowing the townby five in the evening. People gather in friends’ homes or head out for a bite at the restaurants and cafes that dot the bazaar and lie sprinkled across various nooks and neighbourhoods. Heading out from Marina Park, along the Marina View towards South Point, the sea-hugging road is dotted with food trucks. Here, you’re welcome to dig into well-made rolls, burgers, or kebabs. Happily, this road’s sea-facing pathway is also dotted with benches—perfect for a bite, some chai, and the day’s casual chatter. Or you duck into the al fresco Chai Sutta Bar (Rajiv Gandhi Nagar), where chai and coffee arrive in clay kulhads and the French fries tend to go surprisingly well with the weather.
The Andamans has taken over the intrepid traveller’s imagination in recent years. But most explorers will arrive at Port Blair and head straight to the central jetty, to be ferried out to the pleasure pools of distant islands. The attraction is understandable. At Neil Island, roughly 45 kilometres form Port Blair, a bouquet of breezy beaches and the surreal jutted rock and natural living corals formation of the arch-like ‘Howrah Bridge’ make it the perfect weekend escape. At North Bay, great diving spots and a profusion of coral life call out to the sea babies. Cinque Island, meanwhile, is the stuff of Robinson Crusoe-like dreams—sandy coastline, feral ocean, with that tangible sense of coastal isolation. And we haven’t even gotten to Havelock yet. The Andaman Islands’ star attraction is a gathering point for divers, surfers, dreamers, and bohemians alike. To keep them sated is the stunning collection of beaches at Havelock Island’s disposal, led by the fabled white sands and turquoise waters of Beach No.7, and the quiet wonder of a mangrove forest boating exploration. Divers are spoilt for choice, with Ocean Tribe Scuba and Barefoot Scuba offering diving trips, night dives, and in the latter’s case, even a carefree diving resort peopled with huts, cottages, villas, and Café Del Mar—where grilled prawns and al dente pastas are the order of the day.
Beyond The Ordinary
Safely ensconced back on the main island, Port Blair holds its own though. To be clear, the capital is afflicted with some of the angst and pitfalls of urban existence—too many new cement structures; boatloads of tourists whose only agenda is to go on guided tours of the Cellular Jail, led by dubious, misguided notions of patriotism and heroes; a crippling utilities network where electricity and water are constantly scarce; and grand development schemes in place for the islands as a whole, rendering vulnerable the already fragile ecosystem of the Andamans. And yet Port Blair, with the islands, endures. You get the sense it always will. Residues of lived histories mingle with the bustle of the bazaar and the languorousness of coastal to- and-fro. Generations of families coexist with new and first-generation settlers, amid an intermingling of religions, customs, and cultures rarely found on the mainland. At Aberdeen Bazaar, an ageless HMT showroom stands as a testament to frozen time. Locals go about their day, trading, selling, working, building, and socialising in that sweet air brought in from the Andaman Sea. Independent boutique hotels, some soulful and voguish, have increased exponentially; at times, it seems as though every islander runs a homestay. And then there’s the charm of what you could in jest refer to as Port Blair Annex, a persuasive gathering of coves, hamlets, villages, and towns that somehow all seem to fall within the gambit of the Capital, no matter how far removed. There’s the wild sea, starkly rocky beaches, and prosperous bird life of the charmingly named Chidiya Tapu, right down south. The postcard-ready tropical jungles and beach of Collinpur. A host of hamlets and villages that go by bastardised versions of old colonial names—Delanipur, Wimberlygunj, and such. And across the island from Port Blair, the quaint pier, artistic driftwood, and stunning tropical canvas of Wandoor.
Back in Port Blair, life idles along. The day has vanished in an atmosphere of cultivated island relaxedness. A few intrepid souls head off for nighttime forest treks. Some opt for karaoke, dinner, and dancing on the TSG Bella Bay Cruise. Others choose delicious seafood platters and grills at Bayleaf—the beautifully furnished bistro at the Charles Correa-designed Welcomhotel, Bay Island. A healthy selection of nomads and revellers land up next door at Port Blair’s most unapologetically stylish address—the Amaya rooftop lounge at the SeaShell Hotel. Plush seating islands, a battalion of flame towers, delicious seafood tapas with barbequed meat, and the gusto of a nighttime breeze all play second fiddle to the view—a sweeping arc of the sea, North Bay with its iconic winking lighthouse across the waters, and the gentle dance of coconut palms and forests that flourish below—at night, a canvas dipped in romance.
Through passing clouds, you catch a glimpse of a cream-coloured full moon. It dances in and out of its cloudy entourage, emerging in full glory for a full minute. Soon, it ducks back in and begins its dance again. In Port Blair, it would appear that everything moves to the rhythms of nonchalance.
Related: Explore The Best Of Port Blair In Just 24 Hours: Things To Do, See & Eat
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
— How to reach Port Blair?
Air India operates direct and connecting flights to Port Blair from major Indian cities.
— Where to stay in Port Blair?
SeaShell Port Blair is located atop Marine Hill, and provides great views of the sea and the city. Doubles from INR 8,000.
Welcomhotel Bay Island is located less than 15 minutes from the airport and reflects the native island life. Doubles from INR 12,000.
— What is the best time to visit Port Blair?
The best time to visit Port Blair is during the summer and winter months (October to May). These are also the ideal months for scuba diving and bird watching.
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