In the ancient city of Luang Prabang, even popular spots feel intimate. Boats cruise the Mekong River — almost all head out around a golden hour and cruise through twilight — yet it seems as if you’re floating alone on this iconic waterway, which flows from China to Vietnam and through Northern Laos on its way.
As I lay on the wooden deck of a traditional slow boat, one that Sofitel Luang Prabang uses for guests, I watched the outline of the hills in the distance, and in the foreground, fishermen standing on their respective sampans. For a moment, time stood still; it was just the fishermen, me, and the Mekong.
Visitor numbers have surged here in recent months (mostly due to the border with neighbouring China reopening), but Luang Prabang remains relatively under the radar among US travellers. Should someone arrive in the Laotian capital of Vientiane, they can access Luang Prabang via a new high-speed rail link that takes just two hours; the route will soon continue north and up to China. However, if you’re like me, you will fly in from Bangkok. From there, Air Asia and Bangkok Airways offer daily service for the less than two-hour flight to Vientiane.
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The markets of Luang Prabang
Some 500,000 people, across more than 60 different ethnic groups, call Luang Prabang home, the Khmu, Lao Loum, and Hmong being the largest Indigenous nations. People here live a decidedly laid-back and unhurried life. It’s a stark contrast to, say, Bangkok or Saigon, neighbouring Southeast Asian cities that offer international flights to this former royal capital.
In early May, the region was hot and steamy, the sky a hazy greyish-blue and permanently on the cusp of a storm that would provide temporary relief. I spent my early mornings and late evenings on the quietest streets of Luang Prabang, which you’ll find on the promontory of the historic district between the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, east of the Royal Palace. These streets contain the largest number of heritage buildings and are a peaceful retreat from the bustle of the markets.
The morning market, operating from around 5 a.m. to 10 a.m. daily, is located in a mini-maze of alleys and backstreets near the centre of town. It’s the place to be if you want to get a taste of how people here really live. Most of the vendors — who sell everything from grilled sticky rice (khao jee) and mung bean coconut rice cakes to sun-cured pork naem, plus the day’s catch — are set up on the ground.
The night market operates from around 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. daily and is more of a tourist-focused affair, with an array of vendors setting up shop on streets that are closed to cars. While the red and blue tents along the main thoroughfare sell souvenirs and art pieces, the market has street food galore as well, like Laotian baguettes, laap, and green papaya salad.
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Other things to see and do in Luang Prabang
Each day, in the pre-sunrise light, hundreds of saffron-clad monks silently walk single file through the streets of the old town. The daily Buddhist ritual of tak bat is the morning almsgiving ceremony. While visitors can watch the procession and even provide offerings, it’s important to be respectful of the sacred tradition; this isn’t just another photo opportunity.
For a more educational (and private) experience, Rosewood Luang Prabang has an alms offering experience in Phanom Village, located on the outskirts of town. Noi, the hotel’s English-speaking monk-in-residence, will guide you through the morning, which includes meditating in the temple, a life-symbolising water ritual, and a local breakfast of khao piak sen (noodle soup).
Just a few miles outside of Luang Prabang you will find quaint dirt roads, gently flowing waters, and plenty of virgin forests. Venture even further afield, about an hour from town, and you will be rewarded with a lush tropical jungle that holds Kuang Si Waterfalls, a series of cascading falls with milky turquoise waters. You can wade into several of the natural pools here, and you can also hike from the base of the falls to the top in about 30 minutes. To blend a scenic activity with a cultural one — and to make things a bit more challenging — I trekked here from the local Khmu and Hmong village of Long Lao, a three-hour journey with a rewarding swim in the falls at the very end.
Where to stay in Luang Prabang
While it may be more commonly known as a backpackers’ town, Luang Prabang has no shortage of luxury hotels, including Rosewood and Aman properties. Many have very small footprints (25 rooms or fewer) and personalised service.
Rosewood Luang Prabang, nestled in a lush valley about 10 minutes from town by car (guests can make use of complimentary transit to and from the centre), this property’s stunning grounds include its own waterfall and river. The Bill Bensley–designed hotel has an open-air lobby and restaurant as its centrepiece, with an oval-shaped pool in the background. Guests have the option of 23 rooms, including hilltop luxury tents and riverside villas with private plunge pools.
Centrally located a few minutes walk from the old town, Amantaka features 24 sumptuous suites all clustered around a leafy courtyard. Classic Laotian style meshes with 21st-century modernism here, and you have a laundry list of resort amenities, including a deep-green swimming pool, yoga studio, library, spa, and boutique.
And if you’re looking for a premium option that’s slightly easier on the wallet, the Sofitel Luang Prabang may be the perfect fit. Set within the walls of the former French governor’s residence, the hotel has 25 suites and plenty of Lao characters. All accommodations feature a private garden with a gazebo and an outdoor bathtub or private plunge pool.
Book your stay at Sofitel Luang Prabang via Booking.com
Book your stay at Sofitel Luang Prabang via Agoda.com
(Hero and feature image credit: Pawel Toczynski/Getty Images)
This story first appeared on www.travelandleisure.com
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