Santa Maria del Fiore (more commonly referred to as the Duomo) is, without question, the most iconic and photographed landmark in Florence.

While most visitors join the hordes of snap-happy tourists attempting to get a great shot in front of the famous Filippo Brunelleschi-engineered Renaissance cupola, there is another, more private way to soak in all the splendour — and it even offers a better vantage point.

This luxury suite offers the most stunning view of Florence’s Duomo

Just imagine waking up from a restful slumber on a plush king-size bed and drawing back the drapes to reveal unobstructed views of the largest masonry cupola in the world. The Duomo Presidential Suite at Hotel Savoy, the impressive Rocco Forte property that reigns over Piazza della Repubblica, offers unparalleled panoramas of Florence Cathedral.

But it’s not just what’s outside the large windows that matters. Occupying a separate wing, this 1,630-square-foot, two-bedroom sanctuary commands attention by virtue of its size and dazzling design — sophisticated and regal yet playful, typified by the blend of antique sculptures, sylvan wallpaper, and joy-eliciting textiles. The aesthetic feels decidedly fresh and modern for Florence, while still showing deference to Renaissance elements.

The light-filled sitting area flaunts sumptuous sofas, fanciful armchairs, bespoke bookcases accented with precious ornamental objects, and whimsical Timorous Beasties-covered cushions. Elegant white statues by Ceccarelli Ceramics and eye-popping art add to the sense of gallery-esque curation.

In keeping with the grandeur of it all, there’s a separate dining room with a dinner-party-size table, striking crystal chandelier, and bar stocked with top-shelf spirits. The Carrara marble-clad bathroom gives off a spa-like atmosphere with a jetted tub, walk-in shower, and organic, plant-powered Irene Forte Skincare toiletries.

Guests staying in the Duomo Presidential Suite also get to enjoy some posh perks, including a round-trip airport transfer, in-room check-in treatment, a welcome bottle of bubbly, unpacking service, a half-day Maserati chauffeur, and a personalised experience, which might look like a private cooking class or guided tour of Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella.

Can’t swing the USD 5,600 (HKD 43,750) a night price tag for the Duomo Presidential Suite? Every suite at Hotel Savoy is truly resplendent in its own right and has lovely views of Florence’s historic city centre. Plus, guests keen on seeing the Duomo up close only have to walk around the corner.

(Feature image credit: Rocco Forte Hotels)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

All currency conversions were done at the time of writing 

Related: 25 Best Things To Do In Florence, Italy

My son Felix and I slept with the windows open, so I was woken by birdsong. The sun was just coming over the mountain, the wooded hills were flooded with golden light, and the land was alive with insects and birds. While Felix continued to doze, I stepped onto the veranda, breathed in the scent of pine trees and herbs and flowers, and saluted the sun.

We were staying at Oasyhotel, an eco-resort at the Oasi Dynamo nature reserve, in Italy’s Pistoia Mountains. We had driven from the Pisa airport, winding through Tuscan valleys where stucco farms and villages perched on the mountainsides. Grandmothers sunned themselves behind geraniums on wrought-iron balconies. We reached a stone gateway and parked our car. A driver then took us five miles (8.04 km) up a winding track to the top of a hill, where cooling winds stirred the trees. Crickets sang. It felt like the first time in months that we’d been unable to hear traffic.

Oasy is made up of 16 wooden lodges, as well as old stone farm buildings that have been converted into two restaurants, a bar, and a reception area. The lodges are simple and prefabricated — no permanent new structures are allowed in the nature reserve — but well designed and positioned to make the most of mountain views.

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An eco-friendly Italian resort in the mountains of Tuscany

The resort sits on nearly 2,500 acres of land that were once the hunting estate of the owners of Società Metallurgica Italiana, a bullet factory in the nearby village of Campo Tizzoro. It has been rewilded and conserved in collaboration with the World Wildlife Fund. The estate’s park and gardens are also home to Dynamo Camp, an impressive recreational-therapy program for children with disabilities and critical illnesses that includes the first wheelchair-accessible adventure playground in Europe.

From its opening in 1911, the bullet factory was the valley’s biggest employer. During World War II, the residents were spared the fate of many neighbouring communities: the factory supplied ammunition to both the Allied and Axis powers, so it was in no one’s interest to attack. After the factory was shut in 1985, Campo Tizzoro languished until being converted from an engine of war to an engine of social enterprise with the 2007 opening of Dynamo Camp.

Hike through the Italian wilderness!

We found many moments of peace at Oasy. Guests can explore the woods by bike or on foot on nearly 28 miles (45.06 km) of trails. Over many hours of hiking and running, I met no one. I felt entirely safe out alone by day and night, able for once to attend fully to the woods and birds and animals without the constant backward glance of a woman in the wilderness.

Felix and I went walking with Guilia Ghinassi, the estate’s naturalist, who showed us wolf tracks and the wallowing places of wild boars, named the birds in the trees, and answered our questions about the intricacies of this rich ecosystem. When we stopped to listen, I noticed that, although we think we want the woods to be quiet, a healthy environment is noisy, humming with life, an orchestra of buzzing, singing, chirping, calling, wind in the leaves, wings on the air, hooves on dry leaves, fur brushing twigs.

We went out again with Ghinassi at night, walking quietly, our flashlights shining between the trees. We stood below owls engaged in animated, chuckling conversation, caught a fox out hunting, and were almost certain we saw a wildcat prowling the woods.

No one at Oasy can promise you a wolf sighting, but one afternoon when I was out running I saw one sitting on the horizon, eyeing the cows in a field. I took a yoga class under the beech trees beside the lake at sunset, watching swallows flash across the sky, hoping I could take some of the wonders into my practice at home. There are rare newts in the lake, and you can kayak there or, as we did on another day, have a picnic on the shore.

The food at Oasy is remarkable. The young chef, Barnaba Ciuti, takes guests foraging for herbs, flowers, and berries. There is a vegetable garden and an orchard. The farms on the reserve supply almost everything else, and the kitchen makes its own preserves, bread, and pastries using honey, fruit, butter, and eggs from the estate.

“Sometimes,” Ciuti said, “it’s hard to write the menu because I don’t know exactly what will be ripe tomorrow.” I loved the simplicity of freshly picked herb salads dressed with salted ricotta and elderflower, bean soup in the tradition of Ciuti’s grandmother’s village, a dish of seared mushrooms with a mushroom reduction that needed nothing else, and delicately macerated strawberries and apricots.

Meanwhile, Felix, who at 15 was experiencing a growth spurt, fueled his hikes with nightly plates of fresh pasta — a spaghetti al pomodoro that had him asking for the recipe; buttery cushions of ravioli — roast guinea fowl, cherrywood-smoked steak, and traditional desserts stylishly reimagined: a tiramisu éclair, a malt-and-honey mille-feuille.

“My favourite activity was cheese making”

My favourite activity was cheese making. In a small stone farmhouse, we met Romina, who produces 20 wheels of cheese a day to supply the restaurant and sell at the Oasy shop and the local market. She had already heated the morning’s milk and added the rennet; we arrived to cut the curds, scoop them into round forms, and knead them until the whey ran clear. Afterwards, we went out to meet the cows, a mountain breed that glanced up placidly as we admired the new calves. I listened to the calves sucking, the cows munching, flies living their insect lives — a soundscape people have known for millennia.

Enjoy a traditional Tuscan lunch at this Italian resort

At a table set under the chestnut trees, we were served a traditional Tuscan lunch: salad from the garden, homemade bread, lavish plates of fresh ricotta deliciously combined with orchard honey, salted curds, and deeply flavoured, slowly matured cheese. For Felix, mortadella, prosciutto, and chicken-liver pâté. As we ate, the cows ambled and Romina came out to take her ripe cheeses to market.

This is how food should be, I thought; I wish there was a way to make it local, simple, and delicious for everyone. When I put the idea to Ghinassi later, she replied, “There is. It’s my vision, but people will have to be willing to change.”

Oasy is more than a hotel — it’s a map of how things could be different. The luxury it offers is not in materials like marble and gold, which have never been sustainable anyway, but in the way, it honors the natural world. Like an old walled garden, Oasy has a fairy-tale quality. I’m trying not to mention Eden, but I can’t quite help it.

You can book your stay at oasyhotel.com; doubles from USD 278 (HKD 2,179) a night.

(Hero and feature image credit: Oasyhotel)

All currency conversions were done at the time of writing

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

Related: The Ferragamo Family’s Tuscan Hotel Has Private Pool Villas, Caviar Spa Treatments, And An Organic Vineyard

Dogs travel free on U.K. trains, so this couple rode the rails with their pup up from London to Scotland to luxury-hop among pet-friendly hotels, lodges and castles. T+L tip: Keep eyes on the skies at places known for falconry. 

TOFFEE IS A THREE-YEAR-OLD Taiwanese mountain dog who we adopted as a pup from the great people at the animal rescue foundation PAWS in Hong Kong. Following our recent relocation to the U.K., we embarked with her on a weeklong train adventure exploring luxe, dog-friendly hotels and destinations in Scotland, winding up in London.  

Train travel would mean a low footprint, room for Toffee to sleep, and the chance for us to marvel at the verdant beauty of the gently rolling British countryside… at least when it wasn’t raining. We’d travelled with Toffee on trains before (you don’t pay for dogs in the U.K.), but a five-hour journey to Edinburgh with no breaks seemed to represent another, slightly more daunting level of self-control, as it were. 

But she loved sleeping under our chairs, occasionally stopping for a biiiiiiigggg stretch or to enjoy someone stopping by to say hello. Although she’s a common breed across much of Southeast Asia, in the U.K. she’s a rare sight—which actually isn’t difficult when every other dog seems to be a cockapoo (#controversial). 

In an impressive travel planning fail, our first stop of Edinburgh was perfectly timed for the start of festival season, by far the busiest time of year. However, the Athens of the North was more compelling than ever with street performers at every turn, while Toffee’s introduction to the delicate, fragrant gourmet delight of haggis was a definite hit. 

We stayed at Prestonfield House, nestled at the foot of the extinct volcano of Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park. This 16th-century beauty exudes history and charm, with its antique décor, art, memorabilia and tartan which combine to create an endearingly romantic atmosphere.  

Toffee received a royal welcome, amenities galore and a plush bed, while her favorite pastime quickly became gazing longingly at the squirrels taunting her from the beautifully manicured gardens. Sublime meals at breakfast, lunch, and dinner made it difficult to leave, but Edinburgh awaited. 

There were mountains to climb and ancient cobblestones to navigate, but the most poignant moment was a visit to the grave of Greyfriars Bobby, a tear-jerkingly loyal Highland terrier who spent 14 years by his master’s graveside. People still visit his statue to rub his nose for good luck and leave sticks in his memory. Aw.  

Back on the train with our own loyal dog, our travel continued west through Scotland to the small town of Dunblane, home to the splendid Cromlix House. This luxurious but understated country house hotel happens to be owned by tennis superstar and all-round hero Andy Murray, along with his wife, Kim. If you could fall in love with antiques, this is the place to do it. Rooms redefined charming and cosy, but the biggest hit was arguably the incredible shortbread made from the recipe of Andy’s grandmother. Butter was definitely involved. 

The extensive grounds featured their own tennis court, natch, as well as a lovely wee loch. Creative cocktails—hello, whisky—followed by beautifully executed plates at dinner showed why this is one of the region’s most popular destinations for locals and international visitors alike. 

Early morning at Cromlix was an especially magical time—thanks again for waking us up at 6 a.m., Toffee—with wild deer grazing on the lawns and walks that showed the abundance of wildlife in this perfectly peaceful slice of central Scotland. 

All aboard the next train to Pitlochry, known as the gateway to the Scottish Highlands, home to the dramatic 19th-century Fonab Castle, for our final stop north of the border. This 42-bedroom red-brick beauty overlooks another outrageously pretty loch, this time backed by snow-capped mountains.  

An uber-comfortable room in a contemporary wing of the hotel featured all the amenities that a lady dog could wish for, while the friendly staff even insisted on taking her for a walk. We explored the lush pathways, rivers, and cosy pubs serving local beer while breathing in the purest mountain air. One highlight was falconry on their immaculate lawns; we walked the loch as the falcon flew above us—this was a Toffee-less session for obvious reasons. 

Our final train journey brought us back to London, where we spent two nights at the magnificent Four Seasons Hotel at 10 Trinity Square. This historic gem, located across from the Tower of London, served as an extraordinary base for exploring the rich history, sights, and attractions of the city.  

Toffee was again royally spoilt, complete with beauty products and ‘Posh Pooch’—aka wine for dogs. Oh yes indeed. Market fiends will love the food Mecca of Borough and funky designs in Spitalfields, both within an easy stroll of the hotel, but the biggest draw was Thames-side walks, taking in the city’s incredible layers of history at every step. 

Unseasonable, heatwave-esque weather added to the experience, while dining in the hotel’s fine Chinese restaurant Mei Ume evoked fond memories of our former home in Hong Kong – where Toffee had begun her own remarkable journey. 

Photographs by Chris Dwyer, unless otherwise noted.

If we’re just going by hotel openings, Paros is destined to be Greece’s newest island hot spot. And the Minois Hotel is where you should stay next.

If your idea of a Greek island holiday generally orbits around Santorini or Mykonos, it’s time to broaden your horizons. Paros, located not 50 miles (80.46 km) south of Mykonos, has been slowly gaining popularity among the jetset in the last decade (though you’ll occasionally come across a chic European who’s been vacationing here with family for much longer). But it’s really just in the last few years that its luxury hotel scene has become more exciting, which only speaks to how much more desirable Paros has become.

Bookmark this hotel to experience Greek hospitality on this stunning Island

Minois Hotel

• Minois is minutes away from the village of Parikia, the ferry port of Pounda, and Paros airport.
• The renovation unveiled a more colourful Mediterranean-inspired design scheme. All rooms come with a personality — and many come with private plunge pools.
• The food, developed in partnership with Alexandros Tsiotinis, who has a Michelin-starred restaurant in Athens, is fantastic — don’t miss the vast breakfast spread.
• The bar at Olvo Restaurant, perched over a rocky beach that faces the Aegean, is a gorgeous sunset hangout.

Last year, Marriott’s Luxury Collection brought Cosme to Paros. This year, Minois Hotel, a 44-room boutique property, draws travellers to the quieter, western edge of the island. The June 2023 reopening of Minois is particularly notable because it places guests on the other side of Paros, near Parikia (most of the other luxury hotels are closer to the larger, more popular village of Naoussa). Minois is minutes from the airport and Pounda, which is where you’ll take the ferry to the neighbouring Antiparos. Parikia is also entirely less crowded than Naoussa, but it still has charming design shops and lively restaurants, without a party atmosphere.

This boutique resort is actually a renovated property. The bones and blueprint of the original are the same, but many millions of euros later, the energy and aesthetic are completely different. The old hotel used to be all white — mimicking the white-washed Cycladic villages you’ll find in this part of the world. The visual transformation added more playfulness and warmth to the property. So, now you’ll find terra cotta, splashes of blue, beautiful custom tile work, and lots of eye-catching textiles. (The shell-shaped shower stalls, which will undoubtedly leave wet bathroom floors, are still there as a nod to some of the cave-like hotels that you might expect on Santorini.)

Pool suites were added to the room inventory because the main pool is not very big. Food is now a major talking point for Minois, which is great because most of Paros’ best restaurants are on the opposite side of the island. There was also a massive investment in finding great staff, and guests should feel their helpfulness right away, whether that’s to secure dinner reservations or to provide advice on which beach you should hit up for the day. If there is an immediate downside that might discourage booking: there is no direct beach access at Minois. If you’re the type who wants to roll out of bed and onto the sand, know that you’ll need to walk about five minutes to the nearest beach. But, honestly, is that a big deal? Regardless of where you stay in Paros, you’ll want to drive to other beaches anyway.

Read on for everything you need to know about Minois Hotel.

The rooms

The multimillion-dollar investment into the property can be felt everywhere you go, but it’s especially valuable in the rooms and villas. Minois’ facelift took all-white interiors and brightened them up with more personality: the aesthetic, created by Athens-based architecture and design firm Mutiny, is more Mediterranean than Cycladic, with many custom-made pieces by Greek creatives. There are colourful hand-painted ceramic sinks by Amano, framed abstract paintings by Alexandra Papadimouli, dainty wall sconces by Angelos Arvanitis, and Melina Xenaki terracotta tile panels, which act as headboards. The vibe is definitely in line with modern boutique hotels.

Forty-four rooms and suites, stuffed into a few low-lying buildings, come with terraces and patios. No two units are alike, though. So some of the outdoor spaces might have sea views or direct access to the main pool. Others might have more expansive patios that don’t offer either. It goes without saying that the farther you are from the sea, the more obstructed your views of the water will be. But if water access is important, many of the studios and multi-room suites come with their own pools. The Element Private Pool Suite might be the best booking in the house: the pool extends out from the back patio all the way to the back wall, like a mini lap pool.

Food and drink

Alexandros Tsiotinis, of Athens’ Michelin-starred CTC restaurant, doesn’t just consult on the Minois’ entire culinary program, he also lent members of his team to the resort for the season. As such, the food here is more than worth trying. The breakfast service, which you can have poolside or on a terrace with views of the sea, is quite vast: spanakopita (spinach pie), loukoumades (honey-drenched doughnuts), and juicy chunks of feta share the buffet table with fresh fruit, charcuterie, and gluten-free options. The made-to-order menu of hot dishes is similarly varied: you’ve got a vegan-friendly tofu scramble, an omelette stuffed with cured pork, and crowd-pleasing fluffy pancakes.

Lunchtime dining is pretty straightforward and leans more regional than local. You’ve got a twist on a panzanella salad that uses carob bread as well as addictive beef gyro tacos. And for dessert, the bowl of loukoumades now comes with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. The pool menu aims to be slightly healthier with vegan bowls and salad wraps. For drinks, the wine list has an international reach, but there are plenty of Greek makers to taste, including bottles from Paros.

If you can make it to Olvo in time for sunset, do so. From the outdoor seats right at the front edge of the terrace, you’ll get the most incredible light and colour show as the sun sinks. Again, the dining experience here is impressive. The à la carte menu is loaded with elevated Greek comfort dishes: taramosalata with vine-leaf pesto and a Parian salad with capers and tomatoes. The Josper grill is the star of the main courses, where you can spring for lamb chops with a rosemary crust or a whole fish.

The kitchen has also just rolled out an ambitious seven-course tasting menu, which seems to be the dining trend on the Greek islands. But the fare here is definitely more creative. There’s a refreshing cherry gazpacho starter topped with grilled lobster and a whimsical garlicky tagliatelle of calamari with pine nuts and olive oil that tastes like the Mediterranean on a plate.

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Experiences and amenities

Upon arrival — right after you receive your welcome beverage — you’ll immediately see the biggest public draw of the hotel: the outdoor pool, which during the day acts as the social hub of the hotel. It’s not a particularly large pool, and therefore, the vibe around it depends on who’s hanging out when — things could be louder if there are more children or entirely more chill. The Minois team will be hosting more events around the pool, whether that’s live music at sunset or livelier pool parties with DJs.

There is also a well-stocked outdoor gym, which seems to be a pretty busy affair early in the morning for guests who enjoy a pre-breakfast sweat session. And there’s a spacious platform toward the back of the resort where guests can take DIY yoga. (It’s especially beautiful during sunset.) But Minois hopes to host official fitness classes there in the future. Because it is the rebrand’s first summer, programming is still quite limited, but more is planned for upcoming seasons. This could include everything from sunset beach picnics to traditional crafts-making with local artisans to a hike that leads to salt harvesting not far from the resort. There’s a nearby rocky bay where you can find teeny-tiny salt pools.

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Aura spa

Aura Spa is tucked in the basement of one of Minois’ buildings. While it’s admittedly dark and not particularly spacious down there (there are two treatment rooms and a sauna), there is a robust service menu that includes everything from hydrating facials, reflexology, and different types of body scrubs and massages featuring body and skin care products from natural Greek brand Apitiva. If you’d rather not descend into the spa to have your treatment, the team can administer most of what’s on offer in your room or suite (that’s what I’d recommend).

Accessibility and sustainability

Because of the layout of the property and the buildings on it, there are no ADA-compliant rooms. Sustainability measures are constantly evolving. At the moment, the most obvious is the use of paper straws and water bottles in an attempt to minimise the use of plastic. Minois aspires to one day become part of Small Leading Hotel’s Considerate Collection, which is reserved for member hotels that commit to very comprehensive sustainability programs, including social and community initiatives.

Family-friendly offerings

While there isn’t a dedicated kids’ club, Minois can arrange for child care. Larger suites with private pools are a popular choice with families. And some rooms come with larger sofas that can be used as an extra single bed.

The location

Paros is a sizable Greek island so if you’re keen to do some exploring, rent a car. Minois is a convenient 10-minute drive to the village of Parikia, Paros airport, and the port of Poundia (that’s where you can grab the 10-minute ferry to Antiparos, which is a fantastic day trip).

Naoussa, the main and most popular town of Paros, is on the northern tip of the island. On average, the drive out there from Minois should take 20-25 minutes. But as Paros becomes more popular, the traffic gets worse. So, what should be 20-25 minutes could also take an hour depending on when you’re striking out from the hotel.

Finding the best value

Minois is a member of Small Luxury Hotels (SLH), and if you book through SLH, you can usually score 10 percent off the best available rates. SLH also has a complimentary loyalty program called Invited which comes with more perks: 10 percent off bookings, late check-out, room upgrades, complimentary breakfast, and more. (Membership features a tier system, meaning the perks you get depend on the number of nights you book through SLH as an Invited member.)

Minois Hotel closes for the season at the end of October and reopens in April.

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(Hero and feature image credit: Minois Hotel)

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

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In the early afternoon, my family and I strode out of a beech forest and onto a sweep of high grassland, where an expanse of oak trees stood like solitary guards. A picnic was waiting for us, with goulash cooking over a fire and a table laid with a bright, cherry-coloured cloth. 

This was the Breite, one of Europe’s best-preserved wood pastures, a type of forest that is managed through grazing. It was here, deep in Transylvania, that the Saxons — Germanic people who arrived in Romania in the 12th century — used to come to fatten their pigs on the plentiful acorns. Some of the Breite’s oldest trees, with deep grooves in their bark, have towered since the Middle Ages. “These furrows are home to the great capricorn beetle,” Peter Suciu, our guide, told us. The insects are rare in other parts of Europe that have lost their old trees, the beetles’ preferred habitat.

These two new chic hotels will give you another reason to visit Transylvania

Transylvania, Romania’s largest and most famous region, is a place where blacksmiths still mould metal, shepherds live alone with their flocks, and hay is cut with scythes. It’s a land of villages with terra-cotta-tiled homes and vast wildernesses where bears, wolves, and lynx patrol primaeval forests.

In the clearing, Suciu showed us how to cook slănină, cured slabs of pork fat, on sticks over the flames. “This is one of our most popular foods,” he said as we dripped its delicious, hot, golden juice onto hunks of freshly baked bread. We had met Suciu earlier that day, when he collected us from Bethlen Estates Transylvania, in the medieval village of Criș, where I was staying with my husband and two young sons. Only in the past several years have accommodations opened in these places, offering travellers the chance to experience a way of life that feels bygone.

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For centuries, Romania was a place of turbulence. Having been claimed by a number of history’s great empires — the Romans, the Ottomans, and the Austro-Hungarians — it was consistently under attack. More recently (from 1948 to 1989), the country operated as a satellite state of the Soviet Union.

For nearly two decades, Count Miklós Bethlen, who had grown up in the family’s castle in Criș, lived in exile. He returned in 1967 and, until his death in 2001, was devoted to restoring the village and its properties, which had fallen into disrepair during the Communist era. This restoration has been continued by his widow, Countess Gladys Bethlen, and her son, Miklós, who now run a collection of accommodations occupying historic buildings on their sweeping family lands. Bethlen Estates first opened to guests in 2018 with the Caretaker’s House, which has four bedrooms, a full kitchen, a sauna, a pool, and a library. A two-bedroom Saxon-style cottage, Depner House, opened in 2021, as did the four-bedroom Corner Barn (originally used for storing hay). The Bethlens are also renovating the village’s old Saxon schoolhouse.

We’d arrived at the Caretaker’s House after crossing a wooden bridge over a stream and then following a winding path. Dormer windows protruded from the pitched roof like sleepy crocodile eyes. Inside, the bedrooms had sumptuous linens and traditional tiled stoves.

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Days at Bethlen are simple but sublime. One afternoon we whizzed across meadows on e-bikes; it was April, and we could see the snow-streaked peaks of Romania’s highest mountains, the Făgăraș Range, on the horizon. Another day we walked to the village of Malancrav, before realising we might be late for dinner. After lively negotiations with a local family, we rode back through the forest on their horse-drawn cart (rattling down hills so fast that I was a little terrified, but my children were delighted). The red wool tassels on the horse’s harness — believed to protect against the evil eye — caught the air as we went.

Thanks to our shortcut, we made it in time to sit down in the communal dining barn. First, tomato soup with sour cream and caviar, then Hungarian Mangalica pork with spring vegetables, followed by chocolate torte with peach marmalade. The Countess told us of her late husband’s love of the area. “His roots remained so deeply entrenched in this land that our children had to beg him to stop telling stories of his childhood,” she said with a gutsy laugh. Later, as my family and I strolled back up the hill to bed, I could imagine the estate’s former grandeur as I looked at the ruins of the granary and, in the distance, the Renaissance-era Bethlen Castle, where the family had lived at the height of its aristocratic power.

After several days at Bethlen, we drove an hour east to Viscri, one of Transylvania’s best-preserved Saxon villages, with pastel-coloured houses leading up to its UNESCO-listed fortified church. One of them belongs to Britain’s King Charles III, although it’s easy to pass by without knowing — his heraldic badge is discreetly stuccoed into the home’s blue walls.

Our home for the next few days was another old residence and farm, Viscri 125, which has been restored into a stylish, simple guesthouse with 11 rooms. The owners, Mihai and Raluca Grigore live next door with their three children. “We moved here from Bucharest in 2007 because we loved the architecture of the village, being in nature, and the community,” Raluca told me.

One evening we ate at the home of Gerda Gherghiceanu, the Grigores’ neighbour, who hosts meals for hotel guests. After dinner she showed us her cellar, where she stores jars of homemade jams, stewed fruits, and pickled vegetables, all made with produce from her own orchards and gardens.

Leaving Gherghiceanu’s house just before twilight, we watched as hundreds of farm animals streamed up the road with an orchestra of hooves and bells. In spring, when the grass flushes green, the herds return home from grazing in the hills each nightfall by themselves. First the goats, then the cows, then the water buffalo with their long black snouts. It was a sight that felt timeless, as the sun turned everything gold.

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How to get to Transylvania

Most visitors will begin their trip in Bucharest, the Romanian capital. From there it is a four-hour drive northwest to the border of Transylvania. The best way to visit the region is with the help of a tour operator: I went with Romania Private Tours, which can create customised itineraries incorporating stays at Bethlen Estates Transylvania, in the village of Criș, and Viscri 125, in the village of Viscri, plus excursions like horseback riding, hiking, foraging, cooking classes, and dinner with a local family.

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Related: These Are The Best Affordable Hotels In Europe, According To Travel Experts

Don’t know where you’re sleeping tonight? There’s an app for that. 

THE STANDARD IS KNOWN FOR its boundary-pushing, lifestyle-driven hospitality, and its newly relaunched app is sure to appeal to its fun-loving following that never shies away from a last-minute adventure or one-night stay.

One Night Standard, the brand’s cutting edge last-minute booking app relaunched in the U.S. — and launched globally — on August 1 with new destinations, including Bangkok and Hua Hin in Thailand, and the same incredible deals not available anywhere else.

For those familiar with apps that require swiping, using One Night Standard is easy. The day’s best prices are posted at 3pm, and users can begin booking immediately.

T+L Tip for Hua Hin guests: Open the app at lunch time because, for this dynamic beach resort, you can actually book by 12pm and check-in by 3pm — which is just enough time to make the drive down from Bangkok!

The app offers spontaneous, same-night reservations at properties across The Standard’s portfolio, including New York’s The Standard, High Line and The Standard, East Village; The Standard Spa, Miami Beach; The Standard, London; The Standard, Ibiza; Thailand’s The Standard, Hua Hin and The Standard, Bangkok Mahanakhon; and The Standard, Maldives, with more unique destinations to be added to the app as The Standard brand grows.

The brand’s loyal fans have been lobbying to bring the pioneering app back, and The Standard’s execs were listening and waiting until the moment was right.

“Guests are not only enthusiastically returning to travel, but are dropping inhibitions and allowing themselves to live spontaneously once again,” said Standard International CEO Amber Asher.

“It feels great to bring One Night Standard back for all those who missed it during the past few years and lobbied for its return. It is particularly gratifying because we have added some stunning new locations like Ibiza and Bangkok that are just perfect for impromptu late-night fun.”

The Standard was named sixth on Travel + Leisure’s list of readers’ 25 favourite hotel brands in the 2023 World’s Best Awards. The Standard, Bangkok Mahanakhon was named among the best City Hotels and The Standard, Huruvalhi Maldives, was named in both the House Reefs and Resorts for Families categories in Travel + Leisure’s Luxury Awards Asia Pacific 2023.

Cutting-edge and encouraging guests to live an un-standard life, One Night Standard is the only app of its kind developed by a hotel brand and puts the power of spontaneity and savings in the hands of its taste-making clientele.

While it’s great for a last-minute staycation in your own city — or one nearby — it’s also ideal for adding a night onto a trip you can’t bear to end, staying in the city centre instead of commuting home, or having an impromptu sleepover with a friend. 

Always a brand defying convention, The Standard already has plans to link its One Night Standard app with pioneering dating app Feeld, created for open-minded users seeking unique connections.

One Night Standard can be downloaded at the App Store or on Google Play via this link.

Article sponsored by The Standard.
Images courtesy of The Standard.

Luxury hotels often sell the idea of indulgence as a selling point, but in truth, there’s no bigger luxury than feeling like you’re at home, especially when you’re halfway around the world. The Cadogan might be one of Sloane Street’s fanciest (and most expensive hotels), but beneath its storied facade and designer furniture is a warmth that emanates from more than its crackling fireplace – and that, to us, is truly what’s priceless about this property. Read on for our review of the hotel.

Located at the junction of Sloane Street and Pont Street, The Cadogan enjoys a prime spot, being midway between Chelsea and Knightsbridge. Like a number of buildings in its vicinity, it too boasts a big slice of the history of London’s gilded past, thanks to two of its most famous past residents, Oscar Wilde and Lillie Langtry. But don’t expect the stuffiness that historic hotels typically bring. It’s undergone a multi-million-pound restoration and reinvigoration to become contemporary, and artsy, but still respectful of its heritage.

Here’s a detailed review of the property – 

But if history’s your thing, you’ll want to set aside some time for Senior Concierge Daniel, who’s quite literally a living encyclopaedia of the hotel’s (nay, London’s) history. Armed with a wealth of knowledge, plenty of patience, and the warmest of smiles, Daniel didn’t hesitate to walk us around the property for a little tour, spilling some of the most fascinating facts about the building and its scandalous past in between apologies for keeping us. “I could go on and on,” he said, and we wished he would.

He explained its connection with Lillie Langtry, who lived at part of the hotel’s current address at 21 Pont Street. The British socialite – who gained notoriety as the mistress of King Edward VII from 1877 – sold the property to the hotel in 1895 on the agreement that she could continue living and entertaining there for free. Today, the space serves as a private entrance for guests of the hotel, and as a tribute to the glamorous personality, still retains the same mosaic floor and staircase that she once threaded. Her room, #109, still remains to this day. 

Other notable faces that were often spotted include authors Mark Twain and Bram Stoker, who reportedly lived in the area and were said to be regulars at the bar. But perhaps the most famous of them all was Irish playwright Oscar Wilde, who although lived with his wife and two sons just a short distance away, often hosted friends at the bar and was known to stay overnight if his evenings stretched on. It was also here where his affair with the son of the Marquess of Queensbury had come to light, and where he was arrested for his then-illegal sexual orientation.

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The memory of Wilde still lives on at the hotel today with a specially commissioned peacock, a creature he admired and often referenced. The white peacock, ‘Homage to Hera’, is made from 25,854 Swarovski crystals and is perched proudly along the art corridor on the way to Langtry’s property.

With that much history, you would’ve thought the hotel would look like a museum, but far from it. The lobby is light and elegant, with a cosy sitting area by the fireplace right next to the check-in counter. You’ll find a glorious floral arrangement next to this, complemented by a grand painting by Simon Casson of Sir Hans Sloane and his daughter Elizabeth, founders of the Cadogan Estates. 

Further down, 600 real books that have been cast in bronze provide a dramatic entrance to the lift, giving you a little taste of what’s to come in the room.

Rooms

The 54-key hotel offers impossibly elegant spaces ranging from the Deluxe room to the Royal Suite, each as stylish and homely as the next. The Deluxe Junior Suite we stayed at was a generous 48m² (517ft²) (sprawling by London’s standards) and overlooked the streets of Chelsea. A little walkway curved into the room from the door, revealing a plush king bed that was almost too big for two. For a better context of the size of the room, there was even space for a couch with a table in front of this gigantic bed, as well as a desk that was flanked by looming shelves filled with curiosities and an array of books. 

It’s an inviting space, with touches of soothing light grey for the walls. Coupled with the wooden flooring, contemporary rugs in warm hues, and elegant wood furniture that was custom-made in England, the room was cosy but sophisticated, enough to make you feel at ease immediately.

The bathroom’s big enough to be another room in itself. A contemporary bathtub sits in a corner with an integrated TV, but there’s also a separate walk-in rain shower. There are His and Hers sinks so you’ll never have to fight, and the marble floor’s always warm, even when it’s chilly outside. Molton Brown amenities are provided to keep you smelling impeccable for the rest of the day.

A good night’s sleep is almost guaranteed here, even for the fussiest of sleepers. While down pillows with Egyptian cotton linens are the default, The Cadogan also has a Sleep Concierge program with a menu of pillows, weighted blankets, and even silk sleep eye masks.

But it’s always the littlest thoughts that count, and here, it comes in the form of little drawstring pouches that are filled with lavender essential oils, placed by your bedside every evening during turn-down service. Oh, and your newspaper of choice neatly folded in a little leather tote by the door every morning.

Food & Drinks

Paying homage to the property’s muse Lillie Langtry is The LaLee, a buzzy restaurant on the first floor that’s definitely on the radar of many a well-heeled Londoner. Named after Langtry’s personalised railway carriage, the restaurant offers takes on European fare that she once “seduced [her] on her travels.” The Coronation menu we sampled started with a surprise cheese hors d’oeuvre that was pleasantly savoury, and tasty, before the appetiser – a light, chilled tomato consommé – arrived. The ‘middle course’ was a rather hearty dish consisting of Wye Valley asparagus and a poached hen’s egg, delicious if not for the overly rich hollandaise sauce that soaked beneath it. We tried both the mains here; the Cornish Roasted Lamb was juicy and perfectly seared, while the Morel and Broadbean Risotto with aged parmesan were light and comforting. Lemon meringue pies are notoriously tricky to nail, and here they thread the line between tart and sweet perfectly.

By sunset, the place is buzzing with a diverse selection of people, from bankers (don’t quote us, we guessed) and society ladies, to a very fashionable group of creatives that had stopped by for an after-work cocktail. The gin list is extensive here, but you’ll also get to choose from over 80 wines by the glass, as well as a ‘Reserved for The Cadogan’ English sparkling that’s been created specially for the hotel by the Rathfinny Wine Estate in Sussex.

Breakfast also takes place here, and the selection is stellar, with some of the best pastries and traditional English breakfast platters you’ll ever have. Those watching their weight and are vegan will love the selection of wellness-focused, plant-based options here, as well as the shot of superfood booster that the waiter cheerfully encourages you to have for a healthy start to the day. Service here is always prompt, regardless of the time of day.

Amenities

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You’re not limited to the confines of the hotel when it comes to amenities. Because the hotel sits within the 93-acre Cadogan Estate, guests also get access to the Cadogan Place Gardens that it overlooks, a privilege only residents in the vicinity enjoy. This painstakingly manicured slice of heaven in the heart of London is the perfect escape from the big city, and here you’ll get to enjoy an afternoon tea picnic, play a game of tennis on one of its two courts, or simply go for a stroll. 

The Chelsea Physic Garden (previously known as the Apothecary’s Garden) is also worth a visit; Established in 1673, it’s London’s oldest botanical garden and is home to some 5,000 medicinal and herbal plants.

There’s also a gym that’s equipped enough for a quick workout if shopping at the nearby Harvey Nichols and Harrods isn’t enough exercise for you.

Verdict

Luxury hotels are anything but scarce in London, but there’s plenty else to be said about the service. While other hotels will offer you the obligatory smile at check-in and check-out, there’s rarely any other interaction between you and the staff. The Cadogan’s stellar team makes sure you get a lot more than that here.

From the red-coated doorman who very kindly waited with us and our luggage outside for the car to arrive, to Daniel – whose stories about the hotel we could listen to for hours – every member of the staff knew just how to make their guests feel right at home. Add to that the delicious food, the clean, stylish rooms, and that glorious garden across the street, and we dare bet you won’t be rushing to check out any time soon. 

The Cadogan is located at 75 Sloane St, London SW1X 9SG, United Kingdom.

Find out more about The Cadogan here, and book your stay here.

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Related: Review: The London EDITION Hotel Is Quiet Luxury Done Right

Did you know that Italy has a royal palace that rivals Versailles in size and splendour? Located about 40 minutes north of Naples, the Reggia di Caserta was built in the 18th century by King Charles III (known as Charles of Bourbon), who looked to the famous French palace for inspiration.

Designed by Luigi Vanvitelli, the Reggia di Caserta has 1,200 rooms, a 123-hectare royal park, and English gardens with more than 200 species of plants and 24 sculptures. So why does nobody seem to know about it?

Caserta has the best pizza and a royal palace that rivals Versailles

The palace welcomed 770,000 people in 2022, which may seem like a lot, but not when you consider that around 10 to 15 million people visit Versailles annually. As a Rome-based travel writer, I was curious to see this under-the-radar palace. And when my husband asked me to try to get a reservation at Pizzeria I Masanielli di Francesco Martucci in Caserta, which was crowned the best pizzeria in the world by Top 50 Pizza in 2022, I figured we could combine the two. I booked our table two months in advance and planned our trip around the reservation. We would visit the palace, eat award-winning pizza for dinner, and spend the night in a cute little bed-and-breakfast called A Corte before returning to Rome the next day.

It takes a couple of hours to drive to Caserta from Rome, so we left in the morning and arrived by lunchtime. Not wanting to ruin our appetite before dinner, we decided to forgo a sit-down lunch and just grabbed sandwiches at the café inside the Reggia before our visit.

Walking through the royal apartments, it wasn’t hard to see why the palace is likened to Versailles. The throne room is more than 130 feet long, with ornate gilded mouldings. The throne itself is made of carved and gilded wood with light blue velvet upholstery.

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We filed through a series of rooms, each one different from the one before it. Some had painted ceilings, while others had chandeliers made of crystal or Murano glass. We saw the recently reopened 19th-century wing with ornate four-poster beds and lavish antiques in the bedrooms of rulers Joachim Murat (Napoleon Bonaparte’s brother-in-law) and Francis II of the Two Sicilies. I was especially intrigued by the original red granite bathtub and Carrara marble dressing table, as well as the library with a telescope and antique globe. Pieces of 20th-century modern art were displayed in many of the rooms, which seemed a bit out of place but didn’t detract from the palace’s splendour.

Additional restorations are underway in the room dedicated to Mars and on the grounds of the palace, which stretch for nearly two miles (3.21 km). Strolling through the Royal Park toward the English Garden, we admired the neoclassical statues of Apollo and the nine muses and elaborate fountains poised along a via d’acqua. Some of the fountains depict sea monsters, while others depict ancient gods and goddesses like Ceres, Venus, and Diana. We walked along the gently sloping via d’acqua, finally reaching a waterfall, which distributes the water carried to the fountains on the palace grounds. We gazed back at the palace, admiring the view, before returning. Perhaps the most incredible thing about our visit was that we felt like we had the palace and the gardens all to ourselves.

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The pizzaioli of Caserta seems to have perfected the art of making pizza

That evening, after a stroll through the Medieval part of the city perched high above the palace, we were blown away by the flavours and textures of the pizza at I Masanielli. Francesco Martucci is known for using haute cuisine techniques — flash freezing, sous vide cooking, dehydrating, and fermenting — to make sublime pizza. And he’s not the only lauded pizzaiolo in the area. Though Napoli is famously the birthplace of pizza, the pizzaioli of Caserta seems to have perfected it. As soon as we got back to Rome the next day, I booked a table at Pepe in Grani, whose owner Franco Pepe paved the way for gourmet pizzerias like I Masanielli, and who appeared on the Netflix show Chef’s Table: Pizza.

I have now eaten at both pizzerias and have gone back to visit the Reggia di Caserta twice since that first trip. So, I can attest that, for travellers who want to get off the beaten path in Italy, a detour to Caserta is worth the detour. Just be sure to plan ahead — those pizzerias book up a month or two in advance.

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Athens draws visitors with its trendy contemporary art scene and, of course, landmarks like the Acropolis, but the Greek capital has also been a coveted beach escape for more than five decades.

This new luxury hotel in Athens evokes a nostalgia of Greek memories

The Athens Riviera, a region on the city’s outskirts that stretches 36 miles (57.93 km) from Piraeus to Cape Sounion along its scenic coastline, emerged in the ’60s and ’70s as one of Europe‘s celebrity-favoured summer hot spots. The area’s glamorous history inspired its newest luxury stay, One&Only Aesthesis, slated to open in October 2023.

Located in upscale Glyfada, known for its glitzy beach clubs and exciting nightlife, the property comprises bungalows, stand-alone villas, and private homes designed by renowned South African interior designer Inge Moore and her team at Muza Lab.

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Drawing inspiration from Greece’s ancient roots and the destination’s elegant past from the ’60s and ’70s, Moore’s designs evoke “a nostalgia of Greek memories that transport guests to the Hollywood Grecian era,” she explained. The accommodations are defined by clean lines, light-filled interiors, and breathtaking coastal views.

“A captivating blend of colour palettes, featuring natural hues of whites and beiges, with art and accessories infusing patterns and blues, evokes a sense of timeless elegance throughout the resort’s spaces,” Moore tells Travel + Leisure.

Private plunge pools, sun-drenched gardens and patios, outdoor showers, and cosy fireplaces elevate the secluded accommodations. The resort’s crown jewel is the stunning Villa One, boasting more than 15,000 square feet of space with a swimming pool, spacious sun deck, two bedrooms, and panoramic sea views.

“The thoughtful design honouring the storied history of the Athenian Riviera, coupled with ultra-luxury experiences that immerse guests in the history of the region, and warm, genuine hospitality sets One&Only Aesthesis apart from other luxury options in the region,” Yann Gillet, the property’s general manager, tells T+L. He notes that the list of curated experiences available to guests includes sailing, hiking, enjoying the region’s hot springs, and, of course, exploring Athens’s world heritage sites.

The dining venue is another highlight

The resort’s culinary offerings are another highlight. Chefs Ettore Botrini and Paco Morales celebrate Greek flavours with Ora, an all-day eatery, and El Bar de Paco Morales, a dining venue blending Andalucian and Mediterranean fare.

Three bars, including one inspired by two of the region’s most renowned guests, opera singer Maria Callas and Jackie Onassis, will offer classic cocktails and dreamy sunset views.

A beach club with cabanas, live music, and “elevated dining capture the glamorous essence of the Riviera,” Gillet says.

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Related: How To Spend One Perfect Day In Athens

I’ve had a dream since I was a child that I’d discover a benevolent, distant relative with a farm, complete with veggies growing on a hill, sheep grazing, and a cosy guest bedroom where I could stay. While such a relationship never materialiSed in real life, I found something even better in Son Bunyola, the newest offering from Sir Richard Branson’s Virgin Limited Edition (VLE) collection of luxury properties scattered around the world. As I discovered less than a week after it debuted, it checks those boxes and many more.

Richard Branson’s luxury resort in Mallorca is now open

The resort on Mallorca, Spain’s northwest coast officially opened in June 2023. By any standards, it’s spectacular, and the story of how it happened, coupled with the history of the land and buildings, only adds to the mystique.

Richard Branson, who grew up visiting Mallorca with his parents, fell in love with the island’s rugged beauty and originally purchased this historic 1,300-acre property in 1994, while he owned the nearby La Residencia (now owned and operated by Belmond). Because Son Bunyola is located in the Tramuntana Mountains, the entirety of which is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, restrictions on what can be done and how are immense. Branson worked for years to obtain the necessary permissions to develop a resort and restore the crumbling structures but, frustrated with the lack of movement, sold the property in 2002. When he couldn’t let go of the vision, he bought it back in 2015.

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The second time around, the team decided to pivot. “The Serra de Tramuntana is protected because of UNESCO. We could restore it, but we needed to keep it exactly the same. We couldn’t even build one more meter [onto any building],” says general manager Vincent Padioleau. The original plan was to have 50 guest rooms and suites, but that number slimmed down to 26 (the smallest of which starts at 270 square feet) to wholly work within the existing structures. Everything, down to the gravel and a mandate to re-plant the crops that once dominated the landscape, needed approval.

VLE hired GRAS – Reynés Architecture Studio, based in Mallorca’s capital of Palma. The company also brought on historian Tomás Vibot and archaeologist Elvira González Gozalo, who found that the estate was first documented in 1229, making it one of the oldest in the Valley of El Port des Canonge. Sometime in the 13th century, a square Medieval torre, or defence tower, was built to protect the coastline from pirates. Then, in the 1500s, a finca, or traditional farmhouse, was built to preside over acres of typical crops, such as almonds, olives, and the island’s most important grape, Malvasia.

Though I knew of Son Bunyola’s pedigree, when I arrived after 15 hours of travelling from Atlanta, including a 40-minute transfer from the Palma airport along twisting mountain roads, all I could think about was taking a nap. But as the massive gate at the top of the property swung open, revealing sweeping views of the Mediterranean and the gleaming sand-coloured hotel, I forgot my exhaustion, entranced by the drama of the scene.

Instead of a fussy, formal check-in process, a smiling hostess walked me through the courtyard filled with lush plants to Sa Terrassa, the hotel’s primary restaurant. An archway leads to an expansive terrace with equally arresting views of the sea and the mountains. A server appeared with a chilled glass of cava, which I sipped while wandering around the restored gardens, feeling like I’d found myself in a better-than-reality daydream.

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Plush rooms with stunning views

The hotel consists of the main finca, which holds the lion’s share of the rooms plus two suites (one in the original 13th-century square defence tower and the other in a newer, round tower built in the 1930s); the Tafona building, which contains the estate’s historic olive press and houses two suites and two rooms; and an annexe building with two guest rooms overlooking newly planted vegetable gardens.

After a few minutes of soaking in the view, I was escorted to the Falcó, or falcon, suite (rooms are named for native flora and fauna) in the Tafona building. A wooden door with wrought-iron accents opened to reveal a flight of stucco stairs up to the second-floor accommodations. The 805-square-foot suite (USD 3,152/HKD 2 per night in summer) includes a king-size bed beneath a wood-beamed ceiling, a spacious bathroom with a rain shower and deep soaking tub, four closets, and a living/dining room. The suite is flanked by two terraces — and the outdoor space easily doubles the suite’s square footage.

Rooms include a minibar stocked with Mallorca-made products: a variety of Maüa single-origin chocolate bars, as well as Pu!g craft sodas in flavours such as orange, lemon, ginger beer, and cola (a staffer assured me they could provide Coca-Cola if I preferred — I didn’t). Sustainability elements are woven throughout, so skillfully that you might miss them. Sparkling and still water is filtered and offered in elegant, reusable glass bottles. Pods for the in-room Nespresso machines are refillable with espresso by Arabay, a Mallorcan roaster. Instead of toss-away slippers at turndown, guests are gifted sturdy espadrilles at the beginning of their stay to use and take home.

I discovered that all of the resort’s 26 rooms are unique and designed by Rialto Living, a popular lifestyle retail store in Palma.

“We treated it like our other projects,” says Barbara Bergman, a Swedish-born designer who co-owns the company with her husband, Klas Kall. Though the designers regularly create one-of-a-kind spaces for residential clients, it was their first commercial project. “We want the guests to feel comfortable and at home, or at least like a guest in someone’s fantastic home — in Sir Richard Branson’s home in Mallorca.”

In my room, I flung open the windows overlooking the 92-foot swimming pool, complete with an infinity edge facing the coast and a separate hot tub, ringed with pristine lounge chairs and jaunty viridian green–trimmed umbrellas. A refreshing dip became an immediate priority.

As I discovered, Son Bunyola makes it easy to do as much or as little as you like. Guests can take a morning outdoor yoga class, borrow a gratis bicycle (or rent a mountain bike to navigate the island’s mountain roads, regarded as some of best cycling in the world), join a weekly history walk, play billiards or ping-pong on a shaded terrace, or hit a tennis or pickleball on one of the sun-baked courts. I wish I could report that I’d done any of those activities, but there were too many other things to absorb my time.

The food and wellness experience takes it to the next level at Richard Branson’s resort

First, there’s the food program, led by Spanish executive chef Samuel G. Galdón, who presides over menus for the aforementioned Sa Terrassa, as well as Sa Tafona, the soon-to-open wine and tapas bar. Approximately 75 percent of the ingredients used come from the island, and as the on-property crops and bee hives mature, the kitchens will take “farm to fork” to the next level. In fact, a winemaker has joined the team and VLE anticipates they’ll be able to produce their estate-grown Malvasia wine as early as 2026.

Another highlight was the 25-minute walk down to the pebble-strewn beach, my feet clad in borrowed “rock shoes” from the front desk (a must), for a paddleboarding session to navigate the glittering waters along the Banyalbufar coast. A visit to the petite spa was also a must. Located in the basement of the main finca, the two-room spa is built into the former kitchen, with one of the rooms in a massive former oven, complete with a domed ceiling made of bricks. I chose a massage using locally sourced almond oil, during which a therapist kneaded out all of my travel-induced kinks.

Some things at Son Bunyola are still works in progress. A boutique, stocked with a curated collection of stylish Spanish-made wares, is yet to open; animals including donkeys, peacocks, sheep, chickens, and pigs will join the flock of goats that already call the farm home; and a dusty, rock-strewn patch of land in front of the sea-facing façade will become a lush lawn for hosting events. And, though the hotel intends to operate year-round, it will close for some final tweaks from November 2023 to March 2024.

During the winter, the three on-estate villas (which have been operating since 2015) will also receive some upgrades, with Rialto Living leading the charge to bring them in line with the style of the hotel. And, now that Branson and the Virgin team have somewhat cracked the code of such projects, they’ll set their sights on restoring the adjacent, smaller finca, Son Valentí, with hopes to open its 12 suites sometime in 2026.

The fact that I got to see it just a few days after the official opening — and while some elements were in flux — only added to the feeling of staying at the home of a hospitable friend or family member. That’s by design, and it comes from the top down. “Here, it’s not only a hotel. It’s a place to enjoy as a home because it’s Richard Branson’s home,” Padioleau tells me on my last night, as the sun sunk below the mountains.

Rooms at Son Bunyola start at USD 1,042 (HKD 8,137) a night, and you can book at virginlimitededition.com.

(Hero and feature image credit: Virgin Limited Edition)

All currency conversions were done at the time of writing

This story first appeared on travelandleisure.com

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